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Holding back the heavily loaded bike (40 kg), I wheeled down through the cobbled streets of Le Puy; getting out of the town I used a very steep road, where walkers caught up with me as soon as my first stop.
On the Velay hills, my way is marked out with signs: "The road of the Gevaudan's Beast", and goes down into the upper river Allier gorges: at Monistrol, you cross the torrent in a grim gorge, over a one-lane metal bridge.
After following up the deep-sided river Ance , then the river Panis (up to 1000 m.), the way is like playing leapfrog; then the slopes are steeper and steeper; round Chanaleilles (1150 m.), I have to set foot down !
The road gets over the Margeride mounts (1300 m.). The Saint-Roch chapel is closed, but under its porch I take shelter from the rain, before the Limagnole valley.
In still rainy weather, I enter Lozere where there is a long way down to Saint-Alban. Over some 10 km it's virtually flat, but it's steeper again when getting close to Aumont-Aubrac, and I'm tired out. It's 5 pm, it was a 90 km-ride, what a hard day !
To reach the Aubrac plateau, the road goes up: over 8 km the altitude shifts from 1050 to 1200 m., then the countryside is flat again as far as Nasbinals.
After the ascent to the Aubrac pass (1360 m.) the road slopes down towards the Aubrac "Domerie", the Templars shelter, of which only a fine tower and the romanesque church from the XIIth century are still existing. Then the descent to the Lot's valley is steep (8% for 20 km). Some cyclists, with their rucksacks, have to pedal rapidly to climb.
At St-Come d'Olt I cross the Lot on a stone bridge and I go on along the river. You would think yourself in the Loir's valley near Vendome. Espalion is the ideal spot for the lunch break.
Estaing and its pretty castel is 10 km further on, and now for the climb to the Comtal Causse. The sun is shining hard, the slope is steep, over 8 km I climb 200 m. and I often have to stop. Near Villecomtal, I turn off towards Golinhac to join the GR65 path.
After the village, things are better, but I still have to ride up. Along the GR65 path, I got through several other villages, and I go down to Espeyrac. Then it's steeper and steeper, untill I realize I've made a mistake: when I thought I was within 10 km of the arrival going downhill, I still had another 20 km to go, and on a hill !
I eventually reach Conques at 7.30 pm, exhausted and even unable to eat anything.
After a good night's rest in a dormitory with creaking metal beds, I cross over the river Dourdou, and at once it's a 12% incline along the shaded small road. The difference in height is 400 m., it takes me 1.1/2 hour to get up there...
On the ridge, I reach the 620 m. mark playing leapfrog upon the hills. Then it's the downward slope towards Decazeville and at twelve I am by the river Lot.
From Livinhac-le-Haut, I climb to the Montredon village where I am advised to reach Cajarc following the ridge, via La Cassagnole and avoiding Figeac. The tip is good: it's rather hot. Then it's the steep gradient down to the Lot (up to 20% in places).
To get to Cajarc, you still have to cycle over 15 km on flat and dull land: it's a long way, but there, I load my bike and luggage into my sister's car which takes me to Cahors for an evening with my family.
After crossing the Valentre bridge, the road is very steep, but I'm better than yesterday: it only takes me a good half an hour to cover the 200 m. difference in height. Beyond Trespoux-Rassiels the road features a gentle slope, and a much less monotonous than yesterday. After St-Pantaleon and Montcuq, this is Lauzerte, "one of the finest villages in France", perched high up the hill: I labour myself to cover the 50 m. ascent, to reach this wonderful place.
Later, I set out going through a valley, then again a steep slope to climb 100 m. over 3 or 4 km. I get to Durfort at 3:30 pm and I take the D16 road: there are roadworks and the road-signs have been concealed. After going 9 km it's obvious that is not the right way!
Eventually I arrive at Moissac at 4:30 pm, still fit in spite of the 30°C and there are plenty of tourists. The abbey is crowded with people preparing tomorrow's TV broadcast.
As soon as 7:30 am, on an empty stomach, I leave Moissac and I cover a 20 km distance under a cloudy sky. It's drizzling when I reach Auvillar, another "of the finest villages in France".
Then I go through the Gers departement over nearly 100 km, along local roads, on hilly country (and really gentler than on the previous day)!
About twelve I am at Condom, where I intended to have a quiet stop; bad luck, it's the Legion's festival, the band plays it's traditional tune, and I go further on.
I go through Eauze and go on my way using small local roads, until dusk, when it begins to rain. As there is no suitable accommodation for the night, I have to go to Aire-sur-l'Adour, where it's pitch dark: I arrive at dead of night.
When I start at 8:30 am, the sky is cloudy and it's drizzling. The first 10 km are flat, then I have to climb to get to Garlin; I use the national road to Pau over 500 m (oh, those trucks!).
Over hilly land beyond Arzacq, for the first time I leave the tarmacked roads, I go down a stony and muddy path (I have to set my foot down); after the small village of Louvigny, I have to ask my way to Fichous. On the way 3 female pilgrims (under their blue, red and green hoods) are having a snack lunch; they insist for me to taste their wild strawberries!
On relatively smooth land, I arrive to Artix, which looks down on the Lacq plain (with flares on the horizon). A lot of petrochemistry in the area, and the attending smells. At Mourenx, I get lost in a maze of streets but the school teacher points the way to Vieillesegure.
It's steeper and steeper, there is another 9 km, 8 km to go... and suddenly it's the downpour! The way down looks like a stream, I cannot avoid its heavy flowing, and my glasses are dripping... At last I am at Navarrenx, where the reception given by the vicar is a must: first a short history lesson in the church, then at the vicarage all the pilgrims have a friendly drink (a glass of local Juranįon wine).
Going up the hills is harder than yesterday, and going through Mauleon is not very pleasant: everything is dull, the road is bumpy and the air is smelling the fumes of the trucks... I go ahead, then up to Osquich pass, where I am at twelve. The sky is threatening, I take shelter in the valley, under a small church porch.
The road to Saint-Jean is rather busy, but very wide. At about 1.30 pm I am at the foot of the mountains: now it's not exactly a rest cure. After 8 km with bends, it's the border at Val Carlos, the real climb begins, on a nice, wide and quiet road. I adjust my cycling, using either the short chain wheel, or the medium one, with a 5 mn stop every 2 km. Over the pass, where there is a strong wind, the temperature is 10°C.
Only 1 more km to go down to Roncevaux, where I find a sleeping place for the night. The organization is very strict, but the stairs are endless (at least 100 steps to reach the attic rooms). At 8 pm, religious service in Spanish for the pilgrims in the collegiate church: a score of more or less extenuated walkers are listening to the advice of the Prior, who concludes in French with the words: " Pray for us in Compostelle ".
At 7 am, I am ready to start on the foggy road; luckily there is no traffic. Leaving the Pamplona direction, I arrive at Agoītz, over a pass and through a tunnel. Via Tiebas, then Campanas, towards Puente-la Reina, the landscape is wider, I catch sight of hundreds of windmills on the ridges of the Sierra del Perdon.
At the beginning of the afternoon, I go round to the small romanesque, octogonal shaped Eunate church. At Puente-la-Reina, I stop for a photo of the famous bridge: now begins the "camino frances", the only traditional way joining all the roads from France. The national road is often steep, but quiet. I meet a Dutch couple who have been cycling for 17 days. Going around Estella, this is Irache and its monastery, and the famed wine fountain.
After labouring up in the sun, and a few stops, on the national road, I go through Los Arcos at 5 pm, then at 5.30 pm at Torres-del-Rio. At the inn, they have to put the tables aside to place some extra mattresses; I can hear Italian spoken about me: the host and his wife, two people coming from Florence, and other pilgrims...
At 8 am, my byke is quite safe in the stable, but I have to wait for a full hour before someone unlocks the door! The sun is already up in the sky, and the temperature is 20°C.
About 9.30 am, this is Logroņo, I cross on foot the bridge over the Ebro river to reach the Santiago del Real church. I wander in the town for an hour.
Although I try my best, I cannot avoid parts of the motorway, its the only possible way. And the road goes up, along with the temperature. I go through Navarrete, and using the verge of the N120, I arrive at Nājera for a lunch stop on the riverside, while quite a few storks are hovering overhead.
Along the endless N120, the trucks often pass me within 1 meter, and their air-blast push me on after them. The heat is nearing 30°C, I stop at Santo Domingo in front of the cistercian monastery, where the sunshade is scarce. I can see walkers, some are looking for a halting place.
Another stop at Recedilla-del-Camino: it's hotter and hotter. Then I go through Castidelgado, and eventually, after several slopes on long distances, I hit the gentle decline to Belorado; I can easily find the Toni boarding-house, I don't go on any farther as I did yesterday.
After a night in a good bed with sheets, and a large warm coffee in the bar by the side of the road, I leave Belorado at 7.30 am. The road is fine, the sky is overcast, the weather forecast warned of rain, but it's difficult to go on: 3/4 h to cover the 10 km as far as Villafranca at the foot of the Montes de Oca. To the left a route allows me not to use the N120: a wide and fine road with a gradient of at least 15%, then a very steep path (20%, may be more in places) in the holm oak forest. Eventually I come out onto the 1150 m. pass (La Pedraja), at least 300 m. higher, where is the former route of the N120: I am on my own on it!
But it's cold. I quickly get to Burgos, where I am at 11.30 am. Passing by the Cid gate, now this is the square near the cathedral. Locking up my bike, I allow myself a quick tour in the church. Leaving Burgos to the West is easy, but then it's still the N120 for 10 km. At Tardajos, I go towards Rabe to follow the path, then I go into the country side. It's steeper and steeper, I have reached the Meseta.
Going down through Ormaza then through Iglesias, I go up on to the Meseta, using a good path (higher by 100 m.). Up there, it's a flat and grassy surface, it's empty as far as the horizon line, where black clouds abundantly water the fields. On the plateau, it's flat, but a very cold head wind. I go through Hontanas then Castrojeriz, my guidebook tells of a resting place at San Nicolas, 9 km away, but this splendid isolated building will be open only in July! Another 3 km before Itero de la Vega; at last I can find the town shelter.
As soon as 7 am, I ride away from Itero. Still on the Meseta I reach Fromista within an hour. In spite of the blue sky, it's cold and there is still a head wind. On the outskirts of the town I cross over the Castille canal. I have a glimse of its oval lock gates. After taking a few photos of San Martin church, I take the road up again, and I leave the tarmac for the senta (a trail along the by-road): good trail which is between 2 and 5 m. wide, but the surface varies from loose chippings or gravel, to lining with stones. You can see pilgrims walking in straggling groups of 2 or 3 people, or often on their own.
At about 10 am., Carrion de los Condes, still cold weather. After Carrion, another 5 km on tarmac, then the very straigh and flat trail over 11 km. Really it's a day with monotonous portions of road. At Calzadilla I use the N120 again and the senta which runs parallel to it. I go through Ledigo, Terradillos, Moratinos, San Nicolas. I have a break with a snack in the sun, but sheltered from the wind.
At about 1 pm I start again, I take up the N120 again on tarmac - at this time of the day it's quiet - and I get to Sahagun at 1.30 pm: magnificent churches, photos... At last, after 2 pm I set about the last 37 km part of the road, still as monotonous and against a cold wind. The map shows roads, but most of them are only tracks. And before 5 pm., after a 120 km route, I am at Mansilla, where I find the refuge on a street which is being repaired.
At 7.30 am, I leave under a blue sky with an icy wind (6°C). No prospect of breakfast because it's Sunday. After 15 mn, here is a filling-station with a coffee-machine. Unluckily, it's out of service, and it's the same with the next station! Within an hour, I am at Leon where I can visit the cathedral and the area which is surrounded by walls; I go past the San Marco Hostal before getting out of town, going up toward Virgen del Camino; still on the N120, where many cars are now passing, I get to Villadangos then go on along a local by-road which is very pleasant in spite of a head wind.
I cross the Paramo canal, and at 12.30 pm I am at Puente-del-Orbigo for a picnic by the river (nearly like as good as the Lot banks). It's a holiday, the cannon is booming. I set out at 13.30 pm. I've left the Meseta, now over the next 20 km I am on the Causse (limestone plateau) with bumps. Through Murias, Castrillo (with their busloads of tourists), Santa Catalina, the damaged road gets into a mountain forest and it's still up. Another pause at El Ganso, a small village, at 4.30 pm.
There is only another 6 km to go but it's harder with the freezing wind and the bad road surface in the slope; I catch a glimpse of Rabanal up there. I get there at 5 pm but the first inn is fully booked; in the second one, I get a warm welcome. At 7 pm, I am in the small church which is overcrowded and I can hear 3 monks chanting vespers in plainsong. At supper time, I meet a cyclist coming from Venice and using his bike only when going downhill....
It's the day for mountaintops. Departure at 7.30 am going up with a decidedly higher gradient beyond Foncebadon. At 8.30 I am at La Cruz de Hierro, the ideal place for photos. After some rather steep upward slopes, I am at Manjarin where the road reaches its highest point at 1510 m. The descent is now quick with a 20% gradient; in the very fine village El Acebo, on either side, I can see corbelled balcony houses standing in a twisted line along the street. At the end of this endless descent, here is Molinaseca, then Ponferrada which I reach at 10 am to gaze at the Templar Knights' Castle.
I leave the town shunning the main road. Now I am on a nice quiet road and my attention is drawn to a donkey which looks bored; when I look at the road again, just in front of me, there's a huge pothole: my bike plunges in then literaly takes off before landing upright, in front of the thoughtful donkey. Soon, I ride on a tarmacked flat surface and after Camponaraya, It is the carettera N.VI. I go through Cacabelos, Pierros and at last Villafranca del Bierzo where the land is hilly again through vineyards.
As soon as I get out of Villafranca the road goes up again. I go through Pereje, Trabadelo. After Ambasmestos I leave the N.VI in the direction of Las Herrerias then Hospital before the famous ascent: a 600 m. difference in levels over 8 km. I make progress at the same speed as walkers and I must often stop, all the more that the sun is shining hard. After La Laguna village it's even harder: over 200 m. tarmac has made room for stones and I have to get off the bike. On the tarmac again, the pace is better.
At last, at 5.30 pm, I get to the pass where there is a strong wind. Another 500 m. and I enter O Cebreiro village: it's lovely, old stone houses with thatched roofs and an old church, quite different from the one in Rabanal. The mountainous landscape is fabulous and the sky is cloudless.
I leave at 8 am under a blue and windless sky. In the first 10 km I have to get over 2 passes at an height of 1350 m. Going down is quick and much less difficult than the day before: not so many bends and road surfaces in a good state of repairs. A stop for photos at Triacastela then at Samos, a magnificent Benedictine abbey. After Sarria, the climb down to Portomarin covers 10 km as far as Rio Miņo, and then there is a climb up over 2 km. By the artificial lake, I stop under the bridge where a lot of pilgrims go by.
I set out at 1.30 pm, the sun is scorching and it's a hard climb. About 2 pm I am at Gonzar where I fill my cans. I take advantage of the pause to have a tea and meet a Welsh couple (going by bike): she is covered in sun cream and both are obviously tired after their climb up. They leave before I do, but I soon catch up with them again: they have stopped only 500 m. further on; I reassure them, telling them there's only another 3 or 4 km before they get to the highest point and I set out again towards Palas de Rey where I make the decision to go on as far as Melide (15 km) using the footpath rather than the national road.
What an adventure! Sunken big stones, steep climbs, muddy fords; at a time I even lose the traces of the lane. At last, I am at Leboreiro on the former national route; using the N535, I have to ride on another 5 or 6 km to meet Melide. My speed is about 40 kmph going down at the entrance of the village. I catch up with the Welsh couple, they don't look as tired as I do but I can think of just one thing: to be and rest in the inn. At Melide, people are preparing St Antony's Feast Day tonight, there will be a music band... At the inn, a Belgium man, with a flowing white beard, tells me about his travel with Julie (his mare, I suppose), for whom he had to call in the vet.
- La Ultima ! The last one!
The last stage is short: no more than 60 km. It should be done without any further ado. But you can't expect to go to Santiago without any surprises, up to the very last day. Even being warned I have to use a way round Lavacolla airport which has been built across the traditional way, I have to look for the way which will lead me to the town, avoiding the access roads (this highway is forbidden to cyclists).
Getting to the town-center in Compostela means going through sprawling suburbs with heavy traffic and at last, feeling much relieved, I enter the pedestrian area. It's also the old part of the city with outstanding architecture: I am dazzled and I slown down in spite of my desire to arrive as soon as possible at the El Obradoiro square where I can admire Saint James' Cathedral at last. That was the goal of the journey!