Dear friends and family.

Here is the first account of my walk. I have finished my first week. It was a good time except for starter's problems. Really a week of continuing farewells as I met friends the whole way. A week of surprises.

Friday July 6; Westerveld - Amsterdam
Amsterdam to Velsen by hydrofoil. Via discontinued Haarlem - Ijmuiden railway to Westerveld. Meditated and asked William to be my guardian angel.
Took two nice stones from the grave to lay near the cross in Spain where pilgrims put stones. Return home by boat to sleep.

Saturday July 7; 14 km Amsterdam - A,mstelveen
11 o'clock. Christien and her friend Job arrive to look after my house. I'm a bit nervous, have I forgotten anything, is the palce clean etc.? Ellsa and Sophia her daughter, from the opposit side, come to shug me heartly, bring petals for my path. Opposite neighbours Beatrix and Roland wave me off over the canal. Christien and Job hug me at the door. I am really en route.
Down the Egelantiersgracht with my 12 kg backpack, past the cafe 't Smalle to the Westerchurch. Stamps prove the true pilgrims distance. In Santiago de Compostekla the pilgrim receives a certificate as proof of his walk. The first one was at the cemetary where the caretaker remembered Williams funeral 12 years ago.
I wanted to get the second stamp from the Westerchurch, that I see and hear the chimes regularly. Strange to enter with my backpack. The people in the shop enthusiastically gave me a sticker in lieu of a stamp.
The Raadhuisstraat to the Dam, where I touch the statue of liberty. Via Begynenhof and Leidsegracht to the Vondelpark. Via Schinkelkade and Amsterdamse Wood to Amstelveen. I was able to test my waterproof kit in a thunderstorm and heavy rain. Met an old acquintance in the Wood where I was a member of a boat club. Just an hour before I had seen my little boat, which I had sold a year previously; would this mean the end of my boat-era and a new period on the way? Boats were always a symbol for me.
That was a refreshing shower, the stuffy feeling disappears and it cools off.
Ing Michel and the 2 children eye my kit curiously. Max (9years) is astonished at my 3 months hike. He is shortly flying to Mallorca in 3 hours.
I have a lovely shower. Angela gas arrived. My dear yoga friends Inge and Angela treat me to a fine dinner in Ouderkerk, delicious and agreable.
Angela gives me a pretty bag. After a deep sleep, breakfast with the family and then away.

Sunday July 8 to Leimuiden
Loes fetches me at 10 o'clock. Coffee in their lovely Amstelveen home "the Pool". Loes wants especially to hike with me after having lost her dear friend recently.
We join the route near her home, where I stopped yesterday. We talk seriously and deeply. We pass through Aalsmeer, close to Schiphol East, very audible; noisy. A car stops. Two people recognise the pilgrim's symbol, the shell, on my backpack. They hiked from santiago and wish me a good trip.
De Kwakel - no restaurant is open, only a snackbar, unwillingly I choose a toasted cheese sandwich, the best I can do. Loes takes the bus home. I hike to Leimuiden. An awful large mobile home park. No-one on the campers field at the far back, only mobile homes and a tent for cars, so I put my tiny tent dry under a car tent, hoping not to be run over in the night.

Monday July 9; 27 km to Reeuwijk
Via Aaarcanaal, Aarlanderveen to Zwammerdam and Reeuwijk. I greet an acquaintance from the Jordaan who is cycling past me. He stops to walk somne kilometers and we have lunch. Nico points out butterflies I should have missed mnyself, I have to cultivate a better eye for details. Nico cycles on. I follow a dyke with many, many sheep on it. I camp near a smaal pond.

Tuesday Jul 10; 24 km to Schoonhoven
Ruud comes from Zoetermeer by car to wave me off. Two years ago he too walked to Santiago, and so he gave me many useful tips and many instructions. He gave me the Jacobs shell which he had been given by another pilgrim; so this shell has been twice already in Santiago. He is planning to accompany me for a week in September.
I walk over a narrow path and smaller dam right across the Reeuwijkse Lakes.
I observe splendid cow parsnip, water lilies and many blooming plants. Frogs jump around and I see a stork. How silent and pretty - wind, birds and water. I see some dream houses with wonderful gardens on islands. In Oucoop on the lake I have more pain on my right foot. Two weeks previous to my departure I fell from a stair. My foot is clearly not yet used to these distances an d 12 kg weight!
I walk another 7 kms to Hekendorp. I consider the position in a cafe. I have a 13 km walk to Schoonhoven to stay with Ellen and Paul. I decide to ring Ellen, to pick me up. This is my first breakdown. But on seeing Ellen and Paul my frustration quickly disappears. There are many surprises, first Paul's fine house, where Ellen will join him in 3 weeks time. The second one is that I'm not the only guest. Ellen has invited Jorien and Ernst-Jan for dinner, which was delicious and extremely pleasant for the 5 of us. Still another present, a lightweight book with meditative texts for on the way.
And a tiny bone mask, Nigerian, that Jorien had brought back to keep evil spirits away. Extraordinary Ellen to organise all this in the midst of moving house. Still yet more - Paul, silversmith, made 2 gold shells as earrings! And Ellen made lovely business cards for the hunger project, to pass raound en route - with 3 telephone numbers to be reached in Holland, where Dutch, French and Spanish can be used.

Wednesday July 11; to Boven Hardinxveld
Breakfast with Paul and Ellen. Farewell to Ellen who goes to work. Off to Schoonhovenwearing my earrings. I decide not to walk today because of my foot. The problem is that I had reserved a place to sleep and Jolanda would hike with me. Idecide with some difficulty to change my programme as places to sleep are very difficult to find hereabouts. I must rest my foot otherwise my whole plan will be ruined. Today I amble round Schoonhoven.
Take the ferry over the Lek and walk along a dyke to Nieuwpoort. Nearly blown off the path. Lunch in Nieuwpoort and bus to Gorinchem where I have a delicious tunny salad in a nice restaurant. Bus to Boven Hardinxveld and a hearty welcome from my hostess.

Thursday July 12, 15 kms to Giessen-Andel
My foot is much better to my surprise and relief. Jolanda will join me tomorrow instead of today, so I can easily test my foot. I hike a lovely route through polder Hardinxveld and the Dordtse Avelingen near de Boven Merwede. Most enjoiable and very windy. Huge waves on the Merwede with much busy shipping. Lunch after 9 kms. with Linemya Verploeg; a splendid view over the harbour of Gorinchem. I admire her 3 1/2 months old child, Peter has gone to work. I cross by ferry to Woudrichem. What a lovely place near Loevesteyn Castle, at the junction of the rivers Waal. Maas and Merwede. I walk along the Afgedamde Maas, direction of Giessen. I sleep on a farm, room and bed. Happily no tent, it poured at night.

Friday July 13; 21 kms to Nederhemert Noord
Hostess takes me to the pilgrims path. I meet Jolanda, walking now with me for 3 days - at the Wilhelmina Locks in Giessen. To Brakel and Aalst, to Nederhemert Noord. We sleep in a large white farm on the Maasdyk. The farm has a big garden full fo statues from Africa. The owner is a plastic artist.
We dine inthe inn - Den Dijk, where they serve a pilgrims menu. My 3rd stamp.

Saturday July 14
Crossed the Afgedamde Maas by ferry. Some kms over de Doornwaard. Over the Bergse Maas by ferry. Rain all day!. The fortress town Heusden with its star formed forts is deserted. Tea on a completely empty covered terrace. Via Drunense Heide to Capucijnenberg where Jolanda's father takes us home to sleep at Berkel Enschot. Lovely cooking. Dry out soaked clothes. Heavenly to have a warm shower and good bed after such rain.

Sunday July 15; 20 km to Haren
Jolanda's father brings us to the Capucijnenberg again. Cool weather, a little sun. The ground is dreched from yesterday's rain. We stop in Haren.
Jolanda's fetches us again; luxury! Jolanda goes home and I to the Oisterwijk station. He brings my backpack, which we walked without; what a difference with 12 kg.
Eindhoven by train to Winnie ter Marsch, my English mother-in-law. She fetched all kinds of biological food which we cooked together. A good visit, talk and work in her small garden where I prune the apple trees otherwise she can't open the gate.

Monday July 16
To Amsterdam by train to fetch my new glasses. I buy two walking sticks and a wide sheet-bag. Strange to be home - shoudn't be, but I pretend it hasn't happened. Dinner with Annemarie, cosy

Tuesday July 17
To Oisterwijk by train after fetching my new glasses. Sleep in Nivon house.

Oisterwijk - Luykgestel: Vennenpad (74 km)
Lommel (Eksel) - Huy: Grande Randonnee (GR) 564
Soree - Houet: GR 575 + 577
Houet - Bouillon GR126

Joke Huisman, Mieke en Margreet, many thanks for your reaction received via Post Restrante on 8/8.

Dear friends and family
First of all thanks to Hobbe and Winnie for sending my first newsletter to my Dutch and English friends. Great!

Unfortunately I had to go back to Amsterdam 1 day as my new glasses were not right. It was worth the trouble; I see so much better now with these. I had a fine dinner then with Annemarie Schokken and by chance met Annemarie Bokma, just 2 days in Amsterdam. Annemarie is my dear yoga teacher, who for 13 years gave me so much wisdom. Now symbilic - the crossing of our ways!

I walked alone from Breehees (Hilvarenbeek) through the lovely woods and broads. It was rainy so I met no one. Before my journey I worried about walking alone in the woods. I discouvered all kinds of anxieties in myself.
Monique helped me to work through them and face them. So that has succeeded.
I decided then to trust all people I met or should meet without fear and that worked out as well.
The journey began on July 6th by finishing all house and garden chores and putting them aside. These three talks with Monique were especially valuable and helpful. I felt very well supported when leaving all behind, especially by my family.
My brother Willem Philip takes care of my post and finances. Hobbe sends the newsletter. Winnie translates it. Niece Christien and her friend Job look after my house and send maps to the Post Restante regularly. Dear brother Willem Philip walked with me from Breehees to Netersel. We passed by splendid woods, ferns, streams and bridges. A lovely day, notwithstanding the rain. W.Ph. and I spoke a lot about our brother Hobbe, who has been deeply in love for some weeks. Both of us are extremely happy and touched, now Hobbe is so glad and happy. And especially Hobbe also shares his joy with us. (Hobbe e-mails all this, I hope he doesn't censure it.) ((No, I didn't change anything, Hobbe!)).I meet Nellie, whom I met in the "walkpool" and she walks from Bladel with me for four days.
Saturday 7th July at 13.30 I left Amsterdam
Saturday 21st July at 12.30 I cross the frontier post at Lommel in Belgium.
Exacttly to the minute! Exactly a fortnight. Total km 271. We celebrate, Nellie and I take photos at the border, it is just dry on this rainy day.

Eksel - Hechtel - Houthalen
We follow the GR 564 on our Belgian route. This long-distance hike starts at the Kempisch Laagplateau. We pass mixed landscape, woods, heath, ferns, flat valleys of the river and fertile fields. Nellie and I walk for four days through this beautiful route. We camp 3 times an sleep once in a hotel.
Nellie leaves in Houthalen for Eindhoven where she lives, tired but satisfied.

Houthalen - Hasselt - Kerniel
For two days I walk alone, letting my thoughts run free. The sun shines at last, after cloudy and wet days. It is hot. I walk over the extensive Heath (Ten Hagendoorn Heath); only meeting sheep and a woman controlling the fences around. A deer jumps off. Cool in the woods. 27,5 km and I sleep in a Hasselt hotel.
The landscape becoms hilly, I walk between the wide river valleys of Heek and Mombeek, and then past large orchards in Haspengouw. From a hilltop I can see Coolen Cloister in Kerniel near Borgloon, where I'll stay for two nights. Sister Lutgaard receives me heartly. I can dine at once in their guest quarters after a shower in an old fashoned hip bath.
In 1438 till 1823 this ideally situated abby "Marienhof" belonged to the "Crutched Friars" and later to a Cistercians abbey. There are still 11 very aged nuns. I was given a fine room with desk with a splendid view over the garden. Writing - I enjoy the sunset and feel ready for a day of rest after 8 days hiking. No better place than a cloister! I enjoy it. Food and drink is there. Even a delectable Limburg fruit flan in the afternoon. Outside it is hot. I spend the afternoon reading and writing. And, not to forget, I joined the Eucharistic service in the morning, omitting the Cup. What an experience with the 11 old nuns!

Kernel - Borlo - Braives - Huy - Soree
Pauline accompanies me from Kernel to Huy. It is hot, 30 degrees, little shadow, much asfelt, many cherry orchards, we pick the leftover cherries.
Rewarded in Borlo. There we are most heartly welcomed by a Dutch nun, after we had asked her where we could sleep - and we were allowed to stay in the presbitery, have a shower and put our feet up while she cooked for us! A very special experience, being so unexpectedly spoilt!
Saturday 1 o'clock eactly three weeks from departure I cross the Flemish-French border. The villages and houses here are much pleasanter and have a friendlier aspect than in the Flemish part.
We go downhill in the Mahaigne valley on its way in winding bends and deep dales to the Meuse. We pass Falais, Fumal and Huccogne, pretty villages.
Still downhill on to Huy on the banks of the Meuse and the citadel on the rocks between Meuse and Hoyara(?).Pauline returns home to Nijmegen.
I walk to a market square where a jazz festival is on and ask for somewhere to eat. A man taps me on the shoulder and tells me that he and a group are walking to Santiago but in different stages. He invites me to dinner and to stay at their house, introducing me to his wife on the terrace. We visit the pilgrims monument, just unveiled a month ago. It's a huge marble shell - some square metres, near the newly restored pilgrims Hostel. I'm really touched by the hospitality of these two charming people. We drive to their house in the hills and wine and dine in their garden, watching the sun set.
The washing machine for my dirty clothes! I sleep in their study, full of books about Santiago and Josette's lovely photo's. She shows me her watercolours and photos of their pretty daughters - in their twenties and living elsewhere. I may spend one more night there. The following day Luc accompanies me without my backpack. Fine walking without it!! Josette fetches us in the late afternoon and has cooked a lovely meal again. We dine and wine again, enjoying the sunset. Unbelievable - such a warm welcome out of the blue! A unique experience! The next day Luc and Josette give me a lift to where we stopped yesterday. Josette gives me a tiny wooden Ladybird for on the way. They wave me off and I follow the path, taking them in my heart.

Ciney - Houet - Beauraing
Now comes a time of solitary walking. A good moment. Many kind people have helped me on my way, now it is time for me to be alone. A car stops. A man asks me if i'm on route to Santiago. He says he has also done it and invites me to a meal and to lodge with him. I'm overwhelmed. I can't make up my mind quickly if it is OK. I decide not to get into the car and invite him to the hotel to tell about his experience. He doesn't turn up, happily!
In Linouze some agressive dogs approach. The "dazer" works very well. I'm glad to have taken it with me.
In Houet a mistake - the wrong stream! Generally there's no one about, just as I was doubtful I saw a man on the other bank and asked the way. I cros the rushing river on a fallen tree trunk, dangerous! Now I can hike through bushes and nettles and return back on a paved way - the wrong one was along slippery rocks.
I'm now on the Lesse, the right river. It is a lovely walk, so in Houet I put up my mini-tent and decide on a day of rest.
By a local train I go to Anseremme in a quarter of an hour. It is near Dinant. Mother, Aunt Dop, Hobbe and Willem Philip were here. I was 14 years old and it was my first holiday abroad. I recognised the hotel and the field where Hobbe and W.Ph camped. What memories! Hobbe ill, sleeping in the hotel with Mother and Aunt Dop - and me in the tent! Fantastic it was! H. and W.Ph were allowed to canoe down the Lesse, I had to go in a big boat with Mother and Aunt Dop, I did so want to have my own canoe. It's now 39 years later, shall I chance it? How I should like to - but what about my passport and luggage? That stopped me! Back to the holiday camp and an early night.
Suddenly an enormous crash of thunder and a real whirlwind! Branches fall on the tent, lightning flashes - neon-brilliant, thunder overhead! I roll up like a hedge hog, it is frightening for some moments. Will the trees next to me stand firm? I roll up on top of my backpack. I can't sit in my tent, so small. The thunder dies down. The campsite is confused - in commotion, upset. Tents blown into the air and 50 metres away a tree, one metre round, has fallen on to a car. Luckily not on the tent next to it, and where the enormous willow had stood , the young family had left just the day before - happily for them. Such agitation and restlessness, so I go to sleep with my ear plugs in! Only the next day could the damage be seen. Branches and fallen trees everywhere. What a show of nature's power!
I leave in the rain. I pass through woods full of fallen trees blown down like matches. I meet no-one. The weather clears up in the afternoon. I go to an inn and dry my tent and sleeping bag in my room.

Gedinne - Mouzaive - Rochehaut - Bouillon
I begin the morning with yoga on my sleeping mat in the hotel. Walking is fine. No painful foot, pain gone! Splendid weather - 22 degrees, good for hiking. I enjoy this region of streams that I pass, uphill and down dale. So distance is difficult to estimate. I'm enjoying it tremendously.
Very steep and muddy slippery places near Bouillon. I slip just once - hang on to a tree, so that I don't fall far below. Very difficult with a backpack in the rain. Problems also bring me power. I see I need challenges in my life to feel my power and energy. What a lovely part of the Ardennes.
I meet my Egelantiers opposite neighbour in Bouillon. She rang me on the GSM. She's arrived here earlier and found a place to stop over. And she treats me to a delicious dinner. The Egelantiersgracht is nearby! A fine evening and after a lonely week good to see a well known face.
Exactly one month en route! Tomorrow I fetch my mail at the Post restante and then over the frontier to France. The first month and already 615 km. My condition is very much better and I enjoy it all more and more.

Dear folks,

You had to wait for newsletter 3. Hobbe and his daughter went to the USA, happily after some delay back home, also my mother in law who arrived from Canada and New York at Schiphol on September 11th! After such an event one wonders where one's loved ones are.

Part of this letter was written before 11th September, things now appear in a different perspective when reading anew. But I'll send it as it is.

A hospitable reception in France on 8 August. The first night after Belgium (Bouillon) I asked a 20 year old boy for bed&breakfast. I could sleep in his parents home! He and his girlfriend were looking after a house and its foal, while the parents were away for 1 week with 2 horses. The house is on a hill just north of Sedan. They are real animal lovers, horses, cats, a dog, birds, but not too hygienic! Smelly cat's box in the bathroom and toilet, mould on the attic walls where I sleep and also a mouse, but never look a gift horse in the mouth! The young couple were very kind and hospitable.

The Grand Randonnee, which I follow from Bouillon till Bar Le Duc is a forest way. No one to meet and sometimes a loud noise to startle me, it's a deer, I startle and once saw a bear. What lovely clouds, once I have left the woods. Showery weather gives interesting cloud effects. I don't enjoy a day of rest as so far the camp sites and bed&breakfast addressess are not inducive to one. I decide to walk 14 km twice insteat of 25 kms at once so to slow down a bit.

A difficult day from Varenne and Clermont (West of Verdun). Esther had warned me about it, when in 1999 storm had caused changes in the route. In the beginning it isn't too bad, I thought after a year the damage had been cleared away and a new route laid out. But not so! I walk along over-grown paths, steeply up and down through dark woods - then difficult almost impossible paths with potholes, hard clay, large tracts of woods with fallen trees, with unmarked paths: my simple compass was very necessary to find the correct direction. I had heard of these storms but being confronted with enormous holes full of water and meters high roots sticking up is quite a different matter!The tree trunks had been removed but I felt sad on seeing such a graveyard of roots. Again I realised the dangers of a violent storm as I first encountered in Houyet. What incredible forces of nature! People too caused destruction in this area between 1914-1918. There were many bloody battles between the French and German armees.There is a huge war memorial in the middle of the forest, surrounded by paths, trenches and bomb craters.

It was an extremely tense day. Apparently I seek excitement. What an experience learning to read maps and my compass in hilly terrain. I only took two breaks of a quarter of an hour when walking from 10 a.m. till 7 p.m. Nothing else matters while walking in an area like this, finding the correct route is the important thing.

The campsite in Clermont was a public field on a hill. Not a house to be seen, only a church yard! I walk downhill and rejoice to see a small hotel where I can enjoy a meal on the terrace and watch the setting sun. What a day and I didn't get lost! Tired but satisfied I sleep - proud of having cleared such difficult obstacles. Hiking alone and so you need a pat on the back in order to carry on - or don't you?

I progress quickly the next day. It's hot 35 degrees, but sometimes I can hike under the trees. No hotel or campsite in Vanbecount. I was told to ask a man with a place for equestrians. It was some place further on and lovely in the woods. So I asked him if I could put my tent in his garden. And the next day I had breakfast with them and was allowed to use their bathroom. A night of tension - stormy winds reminded me of Houyet. Happily a few showers, no thunder and no heary boughs on my sheltering tree.

I find a very pleasant and quiet room in a hotel in Bar-Le-Duc. I go to the local tourist information office and there a young woman asks to take my photo. She inquires about my route; probably for tourist information. It is also for a well known newspaper of East France. A whole story about me and my hike as well as my photo! On page 5! When I read it I realise I had forgotten to tell about the Hunger Project, how stupid of me. What a missed chance, but it was so sudden and unexpected. I buy the newspaper in the kiosk next door and some one calls me by my name. He is just reading my story and all the people in the café are interested. What an experience.

I meet the first pilgrim in Bar-Le-Duc. A German woman who hiked 4 times to Santiago. Obviously hiking is addictive. Now she is folowing the southern way - Seville to Santiago and back to her house in Colonge. A German woman of 66 speaking fluent Dutch. She studied in Gent. Sometimes she hikes 50 km a day in open toed sandals! She follows the asphalt roads, sleeps in big city hotels, or in towns and larger villages, while I follow the GR, not asphalted. I prefer the GR paths that are lovely and interesting. No cars along a main road for me. What different ways there are to walk! It's an interesting meeting with an experienced pilgrim. We enjoy a meal together. So much I can learn from her! By change she stays at the same hotel and leaves eraly at 6.30 a.m. A good idea, especially when it's hot.

After Bar-Le-Duc I follow the lovely banks of Herke Du Der-Chantecoq. As a pilgrim I sleep for free on the lake campsite. Wonderful reflections in the water, it's monday morning and not a soul to be seen after the crowded weekend. Now the path takes me past old churches, which I visit. At the next village I ask for water at a house, but am invited to a large country house, where I'm treated to soft drinks and yoghurts. How I enjoy the simple things. Like the 2 yoghurts remind me of my time in Zambia after getting an orange or apple for the first time in months. He showed me the newly born donkey.

I asked the mayor of Montmoreney to camp somewhere. He let me pitch my tent near an old barn opposite his house. He woke me up the next day with a bucket of warm water to wash in the old washhouse. Then he gave me buscuits and tea for breakfast. His granddaughter, 12 years old, spoke fairly good English and translated for me.

Next-very hot days. Drinking is very important I notice. I always ask anybody near a house to fill my waterbottle and waterbag. I find it easier to ask for a place to camp though there are fewer. I walk every day without knowing where I shall sleep that night.

In Villeneuve-au-Chene the mayor is not at home. Nowhere will anybody give me a place to sleep! I leave the village, still hoping. A farmer on a tractor overtakes me, sees my pilgrim's shell, so I ask him if I may camp on his field. He invites me to dinner with his wife and 3 sons and a shower! He has won many prices with his "le Simmental" cows. And the world famous cow "Uterino" was born on his farm.

25 August and 25 kilometers to Bragelongne, what a difficult day! 45C, first in the shadow and then through the lovely Champagne district with its ripening grapes and the tiring hike up and down the hills under the burning sun. But in the evening a fine B&B at a champagne grower's, a lovely view. And champagne in the evening!

27 august - an unforgettable day. Leave at 7 a.m. to enjoy sunrise. And mist, lovely is this hilly area. I feel one with nature and happy with a healthy body to do all of this. Suddenly I slip - on a coarse gravel path. A deep cut in my left knee, not bleeding. I can see the tissue under the skin. I try to remove as much sand and grit as I can and 5 minutes later I reach a village for help. I go 5 km on, with a sore knee, the longer, the more difficult. I get a lift to Tourene, the first place. I decide to go to the first aid. Foto's are made, as I expected nothing was broken. The doctor thinks that there is still a small stone in the wound. A lot of poking around, a local anasthetic. Nothing! 2 stiches close the wound.

He says that after a day's rest I can continue. He invites me to his appartment for a meal, or to stay the night, but I invite him to dinner in the hotel, then I can find out more about this 43 year old doctor. A pleasant evening after the fall is a welcome distraction ofcourse and I'm flattered by his charme. I think he had other ideas but that's all in the game when played on safe ground.

My intuition as a travelling solitary woman has always been correct. The next day my knee is stiff and too painful to stand on. My walking stick is handy. After 2 days in the hotel I find a B&B in a lovely house with a remarkable woman. She is 50 years old, very pleasant but special. An American journalist. I could write a lot about her but I won't bother you with it. She follows me to my room to stay talking till I send her away. As always I have my limits, I want to read, sleep and rest. She regards me as a lady companion, and even as a therapist if I'm not careful. But she does look after me and worries about my knee, which is as swollen as a grapefruit. So she calls her doctor, who comes to prescribe still a week's rest. She likes my staying longer very much and even rings the local paper and so much is told about the Hunger Project. Quite a job to tell about the Project in another language and really it's the journalist who decides what to publish. I'm not quite satisfied about it and can only hope that the French will visit the website and invest in it.

A surprise after 5 days staying with my hostess in Touneau - Katelyn Peters and her mother, on a week's holiday, stop at Touneau and stay at the B&B. We enjoy a meal together and look at the church on the hill. I can't keep up with Katelyn's 87 year old mother! The following day Katelyn and her mother take me in their big car to Vezelay - 54 kms further on. Katelyn accompanies me and my backpack even to my room door, in the pilgrim's hostel of the cloister. They travel on. Their visit was a present from Saint James.

Now I'm in the spiritual and lovely place of Vezelay, 5 days in the hostel of the Brothers and Sisters of Jerusalem. A local woman doctor removes my stiches. She had read the newspaper article, while I'm present she visits the Hunger Project website, being very interested. She advises me to wear a support knee band and rest still a couple of days. The consult is free. After a few days Katelyn and her mother pass by on their way back to the Netherlands and treat me to a delicious meal in their hotel in Vezelay. Slowly but surely my knee gets better. What a comedown this all is, but a good talk with my brother Willem Philip helps me to decide to stay longer in Vezelay.

I can't stay any longer in the pilgrim's house, so I have to move to the guestrooms of Franciscan nuns at the Saint Madeleine Cathedral of Vezelay. A large attic with 19 beds and view over the Cathedral. How close I am to the spiritual source! Halted and so I have reason to prolong my stay in this exeptional place. Vezelay, today a small town with memories of a rich past. A church of splendid beauty with an exeptional aura. The church is built in different styles, especially the entrance, nave and sanctuary, yet together forming a remarcable unity. This will be an exceptional week of meditation and interesting meetings; but Joke tells me of the shocking news from New York and Washington. I had rung Joke to ask about her holiday in Italy. She had lived 4 years in Manhattan with many friends there. Some had even been eye witnesses. I couldn't believe it! Last year, when visiting the Hunger Project, I had visited the Twin Towers.

The cathedral is open every Thursday night so I meditate there in the crypt from 3 o'clock till 8 in the morning. My thoughts were in America and with the Oorthuys family, good friends of Hobbe, who had lost their son Caspar.

Gradually I increase walking I walk to a neighbouring village. A German group there from Aachen is following a painters course at the Franciscan nuns' place. So I share the large attic with 2 men from this group; that is pleasant indeed. We laugh a lot. The leader of the course also teaches History of Art at the Aachen University. He has lovely books about Romanic churches with him. I'm allowed to attend a lecture about the Vezelay Cathedral. Slowly I become a member of the group, every one is attentive and interested in me. What an extraordinary week, meditation, walking and sometimes this group. The nuns invited me to a lunch. Afterwards I spoke about the Hunger Project for 20 minutes, in English translated to French by one of the nuns - All were interested, many prayers but no investments! I realise now how seriously I support the Hunger Project. It's mission is to end hunger in the world once and for all. The assignment is to identify the missing element that causes hunger and to initiate the necessary strategies to lead to that end of no more hunger. The Project identifies the missing elements of a family suffering from hunger, what are elements vital for a life without hunger and to build on those. We all need to regard ourselves as world citizens to support these elements. The Hunger Project concentrates on people. It helps people to develop their vision, to concentrate on leadership, by gaining results through cooperation. I underline the idea that people in the villages should confirm this and work together for their own development.

Chronic malnutricion causes and strengthens the attack on the environment, the ever-increasing growth of the population, the frightful civil wars that so characterize our age. The world struggles with the symptons but doesn't grasp the roots of the problems. Willy Brands said in the eighties!! Where Hunger dominates peace cannot prevail. History taught us that wars lead to hunger but we are quite unaware that hunger leads to was and total chaos!

I invite all of you, my readers, to invest in the creation of a new future for humanity. I myself because of my investment, feel linked to these hard workers who wish to survive, who are able to do so when they have the chance. I feel the importance of the project after the events in America. More information about the Hunger Project and their anti-aids action can be found on www.thp.org.

16 september I started again, after a special pilgrim's prayer being said in the cathedral and breakfast with some monks. I'm neither catholic nor religious, but very moved by all this. Once more I visit the crypt, leaving it weeping, don't ask why. I only know what a very special place this is. The other pilgrim for whom the prayer was said was Dieter, a German. We walked together for 2 days, I slowly so he matched my tempo. How slowly I walked the first day. Then he chose for the main roads and the path was found for me. Dieter was a pleasant man, 48 years old, from Aachen.

After that I wanted to follow my own path along quieter ways. It was a difficult decision. I left a good companion to follow my own path. This made me ask myself, what I'm searching for? What is the reason behind this walk?

Now I'm walking alone again - 4 days - still a little gammy, but did 26,5 and 25,5 kms. I telephoned Richard my friend, Angela's husband, berfore I started and he gave me some very valuable advice. In the background there is a whole medical team for me! Koos van den Dool and Frans Kamps also advised me.

After thursday 20 september I stopped at Neves for a day of rest. I chose a shorter route, after my enforced stay of 3 weeks. Quiet paths of Neves, Nohlat, Limoges, Perigueux, the Dordogne to the Spanish frontier. This is the historic pilgrims way Vezelay 'via le movicensis'. I hope to follow the G.R. to Puy via de Morvan and the G.R. 65 to Puy to St. Jean-Pied-de-Pont another time! When I now follow this route the Pyrenees will be unpassable - snow!

Goodbye dear people, thanks for reading this!

Love from Liesbeth.

Hallo dear folks,

In the last newsletter you could read why I couldn't continue over the Morvan to Le-Puy-en-Velay as I had planned - because of my knee. So I took a less hilly way via Nevers. I walk the first two days with Dieter the German, then again alone. I rest a day in Nevers. There I go to the hairdresser and have new heels put on my down-to-heel boots. I sleep in the cloister where the holy Bernadette (who made Lourdes a famous place) is placed on her catafalque. After Nevers my way follows a car race track, what an awful noise and I feel quite a different kind of energy.
Then a man in a car follows me slowly for quite a time. Most unpleasant.
Consequently I don't take the quiet lane I should have done, and keep following the busy road. The fellow returns after a roundabout, so I pretend to note his number and ring somewhere. Other cars are now behind him so he slows down and I dash into the lane and hide behind a hedge!
Naturally I am nervous. Will he return or not? Happily he doesn't, so I walk along and behind the meadow hedges.
After 3 days walking I'm fed up with this Vezelay-Nevers-Limoges route.
So many asphalt roads and few unpaved paths. I take a difficult decision, to take the train and to pick up my original path at Cahors.
After all, I'm walking for pleasure and not for prestige! And I want to reach the Pyrenees before the winter snow. I take the train at Saint Amand Montroud to Rocamadour (333 km over the road). There I rest for 4 days, which is necessary for my knee. Here too I have an enjoyable time.
My bedroom is tiny. For the nuns I work 1 day in the garden to treat them and also for my own pleasure.
Ruud Bruggeman, an acquintance from the yoga training, joins me, he had done the walk 2 years previously. What a pleasure to walk with a good comrade. Ruud sees different things from me, and talking about everything is fine. The first couple of days he carries some of my kit to lighten my knee. And he cooks delicious meals on my small gas burner and tea and coffee! We enjoy superb autumn colours from Rocamadour to Cahors - passing brooks and streams. We are allowed to sleep in the catechetic room of the village church in Labastide Murat. We had followed the well known river Lot before reaching Cahors.
In Cahors we follow the well known GR65. Here are many small houses with lodgings and numerous walkers and pilgrims. I sleep with 3 men in one room. One is a retired phisician Jacques, so he examins my knee. We meet the same groups and still the same two men. It is a friendly lodging with the group. What fun we have! And now I am content to be with others.
Walking alone is never a problem for me, not a challenge. The reason is that when I was 26 I was sent out to the loneliest place in Zambia, by the Volunteers Group of Holland, after having been tested for a solitary life. It is much more challenging to be with a group - to walk together without losing my own rithm and without over-adapting to the group. I can still find an excellent balance.
In Mouissac Ruud takes the train home after 6 friendly days together.
Cousin Peter arrives the following day. He was in Toulouse for a Space Travel Congress and wants to join me for 6 days. He brings my new pair of shoes from Holland. Peter is a distant cousin. We swopped hamsters when we were kids. In 6 days Peter does away with "distant". We met formerly only at family reunions. I am agreably surprised at such a charming and witty companion. And I have laughed so much. Of course I enjoy having his company and also for someone to arrange and see to overnight places. Enjoyable after 2 months of solitary life. Peter teases me about a Belgian, Jean Pierre, whom we often meet. He is a very special kind of pilgrim, more like a tramp - excentric. Quite pleasant when you get to know him. When Peter is waiting for the bus he pairs me off to this Belgian and a pleasant Swiss, both following the way. I wave Peter away and carry on that afternoon with Swiss Maarten and Belgian Jean Pierre. Maarten and I lodge in the same house and cook together.
Jean Pierre sleeps somewhere else - in the open air. The next day I'm alone but we meet up at the end of the day. We have a drink on the terrace, and as the lodgings are closed, sleep in a hotel.
Quite unexpected Schoonhoven Elly (first newsletter) rings up! She and her friend Paul are close by. The next day they pick me up for a lift of 50 km to Vic-Ferensac. Paul's brother and his wife live here in a lovely house and garden with swimming pool. It is delightful to see Paul and his wife again, we enjoy the pool, the garden and their hospitality. We dine outside - it is 26 degrees.
Then I'm alone again for some days - meet no pilgrims and sleep in lodgings alone for five days. Now quiet after all that enjoyment.
Another hindrance is that the soles of my new shoes loosen. No shoemaker in any village! I become unsure. Imagine if they loosen completely in a remote district. I have only plastic flip-flops, 200 grams. I ring the Amsterdam shop and bargain with them that I can't possibly cross the Pyrenees with such footwear! They negotiate with the factory. They will send gratis a pair of new shoes at the Post-restante in Saint Jean Pied de Port.
20 Oktober I leave Navarreux with my shoes all right, glued securely again. No trouble with the knee. I enjoy a lovely section of woodland when suddenly a bang, pellets of shot spatter round me and I feel one on my hand. Hunters are shooting at me! Now I see two men with a large gun standing there. I yell very hard at them, I'm human, not an animal. They don't react or excuse themselves, but pretend to shoot a bird in flight, then dash into a field of maize, where they hide!! I yell, blow my wistle, but they will not appear. I become afraid, don't dare to walk further in that wood. I decide to go back to the village I had traversed 5 minutes previously. I ask for help. An Englishman who is living 30 years in France takes me back to Navarreux where I report to the police.
I pass on the registration number of a car which presumably belongs to these men. The Englishman drops me off on the other side of the wood, so I shan't meet the hunters any more. I'm very satisfied with the Landmark course. I can forget this incident for what it is. I should have made much more fuss formerly. Now I can say "That is that". I can continue with a quiet mind. The next day I meet or hear other hunters. So occasionally I use my wistle so that they can hear me. I'm not at all afraid, my guardian angel is with me.
The Pyrenees have been visible for a few days. The weather is fantastic at 24 degrees. I decide to stay in chambres d'hotes in stead of lodgings, so I can talk sometimes to someone. This is in a farm or someone's home, and often you can pay for a meal. Sometimes join the family too.
22 Oktober I arrive in Saint Jean Pied de Port. It is near the Spanish frontier at the foot of the Pyrenees. Many pilgrims start here. I have a day of rest and wait for my new shoes and post from Hobbe with e-mails from Susan, Berna, Ruud, Flora, Marie, Elly, Pauline, Martina, Margreet, Hazel, Jolanda en Ellen van der Craats. To all of you very many thanks.
I light a candle in Saint Jean Pied de Port for my brother Herman who died 10 years ago in Lisbon. Truly I have thought much about him and had thought to have forgotten the day, but later it turned out that that was the very day of his death.
In Saint Jean Pied de Port I find a very comfortable place to lodge. A woman rules the roost! She lives for pilgrims only, and so she is called the "mother of pilgrims". She cooks all kinds of food and pays everything herself. All the pilgrims can join in. There is a fund for donations. Here I found all different kinds of pilgrims. Some walk from Le Puy en Velay, others begin just here. Some go home by bike from here.
It is interesting to hear all de varying motives of these people.
Everyone has his own story and motive for the pilgrimage. Now I do feel like a "pilgrim". Very difficult to explain but at a certain moment this special feeling springs up in one.
Oktober 25 I cross the Pyrenees. I climb 1430 metres and descend to Ronceveaux in Spain (952m). It is a fantastic trip. Clear weather and wonderful views. Mist hangs over the valley early in the morning. Much wind in the higher regions. I am almost blown away. It is unforgettable!
After 2 1/2 months in France I cross the frontier and arrive at Ronceveaux. The village seems to be organized only for pilgrims! Many begin to walk the "Camino" here. They sleep in a cloister - 80 beds. You can report to a special pilgrims office and show your pilgrims pass. At 8 o'clock they can meet for the special pilgrims mass with the pilgrims blessing. After mass they can choose for a meal in one of the two restaurants. At 10 o'clock everyone must be in the cloister and lights go out in the dormitory. We have to be up and away before 8 o'clok in the morning while it is dark. Strickt regulations for the pilgrims in this village.
I walk for 4 days with a Frenchman Jean Pierre (not the Belgian JP) You will see some photos of him. 4 romantic days! It was quite a treat for me to be with him. Everything was so spontanious, it freed me. A meeting with no past and no future, very much in the present moment, now. We visit the beautiful Puenta La Reina together and the chapel of Saint Marie Eunate. We meet a Dutchman and his Venezuelan wife there. They walked the pilgrims way from Den Bosch som years previously. They experienced so much on their way that they left all that they had behind and opened an inn for pilgrims and now live from donations only. It is a very special meeting and we have breakfast with them. Jean Pierres long legs go ahead but he waits for me, has picked figs, apples, grapes, almonds, sometimes lavender, thyme, rosemary, of which we brew our evening tea. All such small enjoyable things. Jean Pierre had to cancel his walk because of family affairs. After having said farewell I had to weep a little. It's difficult saying goodbye to something good, I want to keep it - the only thing is that it prevents me from experiencing other things at the moment. Happily Marie Jose is in Pamplona, so I am not alone. And she knew Jean Pierre for 2 days and can tease me too.
We keep meeting groups of pilgrims we know from Ronceveaux. A Brazilian, Chilian woman, Spanish girl, two Spaniards, a Swiss, Belgian and a Frenchman. Slow but sure it is friendly. Usually I walk alone but often I meet Marie Jose and other pilgrims at a stopping place. I visit the oldest Gothic church of Spain, where St. Dominicus is buried. He was a monk who lived near the Camino and helped pilgrims to cross the marshes.
He built bridges and roads, Santa Domingo de la Camada (St Dominicus of the way) began this way, his work was continued by St Juan De Ortega.
Their bridges are still there, in Najero, Hogrono. Granou is a lovely village near Santa Domingo with a splendid pilgrims hostel. Dieter is head of it since last week! The German I walked with for two days (Vezelay). It was a hearty meeting! All the pilgrims have to cook and dine together. Very amusing! You can hang youw washing in the church tower next door. The inn is built onto the church. Funny to see bras and pants waving in the wind in the tower! Marie Jose and I keep a day of rest here and wait for Katelyn from Arnhem who is coming to walk for 2 days. Marie Jose and Katelyn hadn't previously met, but the contact is fine.
Fine weather until November 5. Shorts and T-shirts. Then trousers and sweaters. 9 November we cross the "Meseta" (high plateau) and are surprised by a snowstorm. The wind is behind us, luckily, and it clears up. Lovely in the white snow. No problem in our warm cloths. I may borrow a mountain bike from an American for just one stretch of the walk. He wants to walk and I think it's good for a bit. But difficult with a loaded bike along the rocky tracks. Quite a job. My knee is content at the end of the day but not my saddle ache and protesting neck. It's really a day of rest but even so I make some progress and go on with a friendly group.
Willem Philip telephoned me. I was homesick and want to go home. I want to see my brothers, family and friend. I thought of walking back, but changed my mind.
I miss you all, I'm curious and interested how you are!
With much love
Liesbeth

Addendum
From Fromista to Leon the stretches are endless plains with nice skies.
I can borrow Antoines bike for three more days. This way I can rest my knee without losing too many days and without losing track of a nice group of pigrims. 12 November Marie Jose and I say farewell to Katelyn, who takes the train to Panferrado so she can walk the final stretch of the Camino. It was good to walk with the three of us. During the day we used to walk our own pace, in the evening we would meet again. In Astorga I wait again for shoes. The soles of the shoes that were sent by the factory loosend after a few days. I could not believe it at first!
The new pair appeared to be of the same series that was no good. They again promise me new ones at their cost. But unfortunately they have not yet arrived. A lot of fuss for me. In Astorga I say goodbye to Marie Jose, who returns to Holland. We walked together the same route for three weeks. I will miss her.
In two weeks I hope to arrive in Santiago. I will walk along to Fisterra, the most westerly part of Spain. Early December I hope to be back at home. I thought of walking back for a moment, but as I wrote, I do long for home and to see you all.

Dear Folks,

8th December! I have arrived in Amsterdam again, after 5 months absence, and find out how very many of you have followed my footsteps by reading my letters and looking at photos.
Many thanks for all your interest. It is late after my arrival home that I finish typing my letter for you in English, but for the one who still has interest I send this final letter of my pilgrimage.
Now I have to get used to being at home:
My body doesn't fit yet, used to activity, being outdoors and tired out-sleeping. My legs have protested against this non activity by becoming stiff and swollen. My head, so used to absolute silence has to activate itself, the traffic, vehicles from everywhere, the mail, christmas- and welcome cards, the t.v., telephones, e-mails, meeting and talking to family, friends, neighbours, what a lot for my poor head!An empty head, on a pillowless, a sagging bed sleeps at once, but a head, full of impressions, at home in bed can't sleep! What luxury problems!
For the first time I recently saw the 11 Sept. drama on t.v. with its 3000 dead.
Just as shocking for me personallly is that today 35000 people die of hunger and again tomorrow 35000 people, not from a terrorist attack, not so quickly but because of chronic hunger. Thousands of children, who are not free to be a child, growing up parentless, without love of the parents, fighting to survive. I could scream it from the rooftops,how can we let this be?
Here I am, a woman able to go on a journey in freedom, always food on the way. I realise this is only possible for a relatively small group of people from some countries. To meet free people in freedom, that was the reason so much affection and friendliness was showered on me during my pelgrimage!
Naturally I realise the great difference in the world, the vulnerability of it all. How can I live in this blessed country? Yes, I do want to live in a democratic land, but I also wish to dedicate myself to an organisation that clearly helps people to help themselves in their own environment so that our children can met each other in a free world.
I have just learned that the Nobel prize winner Ammartya Sen has joined the International Hunger Project. He is the first, who made the important link between democracy and hunger, he stated that in a land with freedom of the press never has experienced hunger.
I have walked 2600 km to Santiago, you know it was for personal reasons, new challenges, to be with nature, not being attached to things, the simple life, spirituality, to stretch out to extend my limits, to live freely, in the moment.

I feel I have achieve these aims.
But I call on all of you to help me to achieve my second aim. An altruistic aim!
To spread the Hunger Project, to my supporters, to my fellow pilgrims and people I met.
I am looking for investers who consider themselves citizens of the world, who will invest a part of their capital in a future without hunger where each child, man and woman has a change to live healthy and productivelife.
Don't think you have finished with me yet!
My journey is only succesful when I have moved something in you so that your first step can be to find out what the Hunger Project means to you personally. I believe that the hunger begins with our concern and commitment to do something.
It is interesting that the Hunger Project in Africa has taken on the task of Aids prevention, the aidsvirus generally coincides where there is chronic hunger.
Recently a Dutch group arrived from Malawi and Mozambique, they saw how woman farmers reached results. They have information evening sessions about what they have seen. How real changes and possitive energy have been brought about by the Hunger Project.
See internet www.thp.org
There is all the information about the Hunger Project and where and how the money is spent.
I know that all of you are contributors to charities, that you are benevolent people, that you support your own institution. I think you are again able to look at new possibilities and I ask you to invest in the Hunger Project this month or the next.
Lao-tse: "One thousands mile journey begins under your feet"
Who takes the step?
Will you walk with me?
If you listen to my appeal send an e-mail with your address to Hans Iken: hhd.iken@hccnet.nl with the words I walk with you or call him tel: 0031-180-631032
He will then send you a form with details how to invest. Doubts about the Hunger Project, their commitment, quality mark, annual report? Don't hesitate to ring either Hans or myself.
Hans will know that you, via the code: "I walk with you" will become investers through me, he will tell me the amounts without the names, quite anonymous. He can tell how many Euro or Dollar km we have walked, ofcourse I will keep you in the picture after two months.
Personally I have invested 5000 Euro for two years, starting is most difficult but later I found a new world. Just like taking the first step to Santiago but I turned all the richer for it!
I invite you join me, I don't like to walk alone anymore.

Now-here is my final report the arrival in Santiago and the walk to the sea for those who are interested. My previous report ended in Astorga.
After Astorga I passed a huge and ancient oak tree. I meditate here for 1/2 hour, then I put one of the 2 stones from Williams grave in a large hole in the trunk, oak trees had a special meaning for him. William had opened my eyes towards nature, I shall never forget the intensity of his enjoyment. So that I attained to a new understanding for nature.
How thankful I am to him because I enjoy it so much more intensely.
I want to take acorn from this magnificent tree. A group of pelgrims I have journeyed with catch me up. They help me, but all the swine have eaten everything but at long last Antoine finds just the last acorn how grateful I am. I go with them to the next village where we first go to a cosy bar and then to the refugio.
It snows a lot it is very cold. No heathing but a fire place keeps us warm there.
Usely I walk alone during the day and meet pelgrims on the way or in the rufugio. Now, because of the snow and thick mist I join them. Up to 1162 m and then to 1504 m mysterious because of the mist.
Suddenly, uexpectedly, an enormous iron cross looms before us in the thick mist.
(Cruz de Ferro) The Iron Cross is fixed to the trunk of a tree, on a huge pile of stones, 5 m high. For very many years pilgrims en route to Santiago have placed stones here, symbolic of the burdens they bear. I feel I don't bear any burden at all, I feel grateful to be able to accomplish this journey, receive so many presents, so much friendship and affection, and so I place a stone there, for thankfulness and for the break with the old way of life.
We all stand together in silence, everyone with his own thoughts. I remember my mother, today is her birthday 89 years ago, she died at the beginning of the year. Suddenly, just a moment, the mist clears -there is a hole in the sky- we can sea a beautiful mountain enclosed in it. Again, another present for me! Then the silence is broken and a snowball fight begins.
Gradually we walk our way down to the mountain village of Manjarin, where Thomas and his friend have a pelgrim's inn, they try to bring back the Templars old customs.
The inn is untidy but in a wonderful place. Dogs,cats, chickens, turkeys wander around. It reminds me of the hippy time.
Still we descend down to 600 m to Molinasseca. The last hour over a dark and bumpy rocky path under a brillant clear starry sky.
A peasant surprise for me. My brother Willem Philip decides to walk withe me , for the last 100 km. When I meet up with him he has walked 33 km, together we do another 12 km. So on his first day he walked 45 km.
We meet a man, walking for 4 years! He survived a shipreck, was the only one, and is now walking to all holy places in Europe, to show gratitude. He is Spanish and now almost home.
In the evening we meet the group again and Willem Philip begins to be a part of it.
We cook our own food in the kitchen of the refugio: no plates, so we share food from the pans and the colander!! That doen't spoil the fun, every time we solve a problem, here a meal, we feel that we are a group a unity. Here no plate-sometimes no light- or only one burner to cook on. There was no shop at all in the village but out of the backpacks came a meal: spaghetti, sardines, tin of tomato sauce, chestnuts, picked on the way, a piece of cheese, all together we were glad of the meal !
We come to the last stage on our St James path it pass Lavacolla, where pilgrims used to wash themselves in the brook to arrive clean in Santiago. It is so cold that we decide to not to wash and change and to continue dirty to the holy place of pelgrimage!
We reach the old centre of Santiago with its numerous churches and officials buildings. First we seek the cathedral. It is lovely but meaningless to me. Quite different from the church in Vezelay which I love.
The baroque facade of Santiago cathedral is remarkable, although the statues and relicts again mean little to me. More extraordinary and impressive is the knowledge that through long ages innumerable bands of pelgrims, with their different experiences, have walked this unique way, forgetting their daily duties and chores, though not all of them, were able to end their pilgrimage in this special place.
After two days of rest my brother and I have a walk of 4 days to Finisterre (the end of the earth). It was a lovely trip with for the first time rain after 6 weeks. It was fine to be by the sea again. Under the lighthouse on the rocky point of the most westley part of Spain I lit candles, for all the pigrims I had met on the camino, for my family and friends and all of you who were so interested. Many pilgrims burn their clothes here as an end to their jorney and to symbolise a new future. I thought it is rather a pity to burn my expensive goratex outfit a destruction of capital, so I burnt a pair of socks instead!
That night we stayed in a luxurious hostel with vieuws over the sea from 3 sides. The next day we plunged into the sea. Brrrrrrrrrr!
Then we followed the coast to the north to Muxia for 2 days. On our very last day a journalist stopped his car to ask many questions, the artticle came in the newspaper at decembre 13 th..
If you can read Spanish check the frontpage of this website.

The destination was important for me but even more the journey itself. The fact that I was on the way made me concentrate on where I wanted to go, not where I came from and so I become free from the past and ready for the present.
I deeply enjoy the contact with nature, which is always round us, where I can learn so much, where I load up health and energy and power and meet people spontaneously who are also on the way and moving. A simple life far removed from dry boring theories and discussions, here is something new every day.
Now I am home I realise how litle I need to be happy, the same feeling I remember during my 2 years sojourn and work in Zambia, deep in the bush and my 5 months trek with a friend in West Africa, now so long ago.
Complete detachment comes from sleeping in a different bed nearly every night being in the everlasting now, ignorant where next to sleep,not worrying about what will follow.
My house is my 12 kg heavy backpack. Never worrying about what to wear for 5 months I have worn and wash the same vest and Tshirt. But who sees , or smells your Tshirt in the middle of a forest or in the silence of the vast spanish mesetas (plains)?
It is a journey where I can let my thoughts wander and where I realise I have a powerful source of energy for solving problems and that it is a challenge to conquer obstacles and to achieve objects. And that at long last to think I am no longer the little girl unable to keep up with the others. This old deep feeling does not parellel now with reality.
If I consider how brave the pilgrims are, why can't I think about myself? What stops me? What profile is there to denigrate myself? I don't serve the world with this and I also don't take responsibility.

Good dear people, thank you for all your attention, the keeping up with me, welcome home cards, e-mails, telephones, Christmas and New Years cards. It is a heartwarming such support! Imust just mention my special mother-in-law Winnie who transslated all my Dutch news lettters and then my terrific brother Hobbe, who typed my news letters first in Dutch and later in English and completely unexpected gesture made a website!

For you all now I wish you exellent health, a life in freedom and in... riches!

With love and affection, Liesbeth