http://www.fieldofstars.com/
And we are off. Leaving our lovely view from our base in Italy, we headed out in our Fiat Cinquecento barely large enough to fit Maura and Larry . Finding our bus from Citta di Castello to Arezzo train station . Killing time in the bar.. And finally off to Nice, France after 10 hours on the train. Ready for another day of train riding tomorrow.
After a quick breakfast of simple carbs, we took the train to SJPP together with several other pilgrims . I spent most of the time writing yesterday's update and so missed most of the scenery, but I could still tell that the terrain has become rougher than it was before Bayonne. On arrival all the pilgrims took off together with determination, I don't know wheter they really knew where they were going or whether it was the confidence born of numbers, Larry lingered to take pictures, while I consulted the map. We eventually reached the refuge within la Citadelle--it was full--and were directed to the Accueil St Jacques. Helpful volunteers in multiple languages (french translated into English by a Swedish woman) explained the route to Roncesvalles, made reservations for us to stay at Honto , gave us a shell for a small donation, told us where to buy food, where to go to mass this morning. We set off, loaded with baguettes, chocolate, fruit and cheese and started uphill out of St Jean Pied de Port. Route steep, but glorious day , the road goes through rolling green pastures, with white farmhouse with red shutters, and cows. We reached Honto in 3 hours, after stopping several times.
Leaving the lodge in Honto we headed up...up....and more into the clouds. Leaving the valley behind looking at the maoutnins and mountain ranges behind us as we crossed the Pyranees into Spain. Sheep and occasional horse were the only signs of live. A rare house seemed to cling to the side of the cliff . Up into the rain we climbed. On towards Roncesvalles, Spain. Finally over the pass, descent, and back into the forest . Finally arriving at our refuge. A church with nothing but beds , almost 200! If we were not so tired, I might be afraid how I could sleep with 200 people in one room. But fatigue will win out until tomorrow morning, when we start all over again.
Today started out with great hope. It was not raining when we left. We passed small villages . Crossed bridges into Larrasoana for coffee. Always following the camino sign . But then it started (again) to rain. Maura slopped throught the mud, looking at villages off in the dostance. The flowers ranged in color from pink is varied shapes to red to flowers gone to seed . I saw signs that I did not understand . And then it happened, the sun came out allowing us to follow the now sunny path crossing the Villave Bridge into Basilica de Arre convent where we got out pilgrim's passport stamped and a bunk bed for the night. The weather continues to play with our minds. After a brief episode of sun, the rain returned. We left out refugio and headed out. Soon we came on the bridge to Pamplona where we were photographed . Pamplona was beautiful with buildings , gates , and parks. But soon we were back in the country. We arrived at a refugio, some 10 Km after Arre, and were told that we had not walked enough to get a bunk! So back on the trail we went. Through wheat fields with ruins in the back ground, to vine covered paths . Poppies and wheat field lined our muddy path . Onward, upward, over a hill covered with wind turbines. The 'hill' is actually the Sierra del Perdon, it peaked at 734 meters and we felt that we had indeed deserved some perdon. Eventually heading back down past fields of asparagus to reach our much need refugio. And of course it rained most of the afternoon again today! Maybe tomorrow, the sun
will start to dry up the mud.
Finally a day of rest, and finally an entire sunny day! We left Uterga and headed south, going over some field paths, through almond trees. The ridge that we crossed yesterday in the rain, was now clear giving us a great view of the wind mills as we made out way down the trail . The trail again led us through wheat fields and poppy patches. Honey suckle filled out senses with sweet smells, while mistletoe covered the almond trees. In short order we arrived in Obanos , where we found food to have a snack . The town church gave a pleasant background. After a short break onward to out refugio, one of the nicest yet with hot water, real as well as advertized, kitchen and place to sit outdoors. It is at the entry to town and is run by the Padres Reparadores. It is next to a church with a lovely bell tower . A much needed day of rest for both of us, and Maura slept all afternoon so we will be ready for the 19Km tomorrow.
Today we walked from Puente La Reina to Estella, it was to be a 19 km day, but it seemed a lot longer and the pack seemed a lot heavier. Today I pared down what I am carrying, learning to let go of unnecessary though possibly useful things. The first lesson of the camino, which I thought I had learned already, but my shoulders said otherwise. We made good time going to Maneru in spite of an early steep uphill, we reached an old Roman road and wondered whether any of our current roads would still be visible after a couple of millennia of neglect. We reached Cirauqui, where we had our pilgrim passport stamped and on to Lorca. We had been looking for a bar all morning to get our cafe con leche and some bread, but none of the bars in these towns are open, nor could we find a store to buy bread. We made do with the water from the fountain and some salame from Norcia. We reached Lorca at about noon, sat in the main square, the only people around are pilgrims, the square is deserted. The same square in Italy would probaly have 2 bars, one for the old guys sitting around passing the time, one cool one to see and to be seen, perhaps there might even be a market...but this part of Spain seems deserted to me, I don't know where people are, I am sure that here people live at different times. Lorca to Estella was supposed to be 6.5 kms, but we walked for over 3 hours before we saw signs of Estella . Passing a lovely old cross we continued towards Estella. We did see a lovely church on the way, the Ermito de S.Miguel. The current refugio is crowded,
but the facilities are good, hot water for a shower, the ultimate of luxury. And now off to dinner.
Heading from refugio we headed past the church and out of Estella.. Our choice today was to go to a refugio at Villamayor de Monjardin, 8.2 kms away or go on to Los Arcos, 12 kms further on and without houses or villages in between. We arrived too soon to use the refugio in Villamayor, so we went looking for a bar instead, we found an open one in Urbiola, a little off the road. We met up with the 4 Irish women we had met in Honto on the first day, they have sent their packs ahead by taxi! I might try that tomorrow instead of taking a day off. The path today was monotonous , though rolling, it went through fields of wheat , vineyards , many vineyards , different vineyards, and flowering olives all overlooked by the ruins of a castle ruins of a castle. We actually took a break today, we finally arrived in Los Arcos Los Arcos and found a bed in the refugio .
Today was day 11. It started uneventfully. We start by trying to catch our shadow every morning. By noon we have caught our shadow . Slowly we march on, passing beautiful colorful banks of flowers , purple flowers , and new shoots from old roots . Stopping to care for our feet of a happy pilgrim . Coming on the small town of Sansol . By this time the shadow has passed us. Finally Viana , our stop for the night comes into view. Then a intestinal bug caught us both and stopped us in our tracks. Tomorrow will have to be a rest day, a day to reflect on the camino, and a day to recover. A much needed rest day. As we spent most of the day sleeping, there is little to report. but that we recovered from fatigue , some stomach upset and blistered feet. Viana streets are similar to most Spanish towns that we have seen. There is a gate . There is a big church surrounded by bars with people enjoying a beverage . The church interior is surprisingly ornate. The only thing which distinguishes Viana is that this is where Cesare Borgia died and was buried...
So tomorrow morning we set out to the country side to see what adventures we may find.
, Leaving Navarette and its arched charm we found shade under inter-twined sycamore branches . We started to climb up and up. Finally reaching the pass we could see snow covered peaks in the distance. Little piles of rocks lined the path like crosses line the fences. Soon we entered Najera over a lovely bridge , at the sound of church bells and again we started to climb long road up the next hill. Eventually the church spire of Azofra came into view. But the refugio was full. So tonight we sleep on the floor in the kitchen. Never the same, always an adventure!
A poem found on a wall says it all.... Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 ...and thanks to those who can say it better than I.
Last night, as always, was an adventure . Maura, going to bed shows out "friendly" arrangements. A bright full moon kept us all company. Leaving town we passed by the town fountain and some beautiful columbine plants . Following the long misty path that seemed to go on forever . We all seemed to fill the path today, maybe because of the misty weather, or maybe it just happened. After about 20 Km it started to rain, which was luck, as we had just reached Santo Domingo de La Calozada. Feeling a bit stressed, we opted for an early stop and a nice hotel. Ah, a hot shower and a quiet room!
Today is May 16 and we have completed about 220Km (137Miles)
A magnificent day! We started from Santo Domingo with its impressive church spire. Typical street scene from Santo Domino faded into wheat fields , spotted with pilgrims in the distance. Maura tirelessly walked on with her new haircut ! The sun continued to shine, and the breeze kept us comfortable. On to our rufugio for the night.
The grapes are gone. The wheat is going. The day was sunny and bright. Our bodies were not. The fields surrounded the path but these fields were hay, the houses were sparser and the few we found were old and in some cases falling down. The leaves of the oaks had not yet opened, today we walked up to 1100 meters and there was a definite change in the pattern of plants . The churches appeared less rich in their construction and in some cases they were up in the cliff . The heather was pretty and interspersed with other scrub, but the path through fields of heather seemed endless or it felt such to some of us. But we continued on our path with Maura carrying the bread on her pack to feed us as we needed food. Finally arriving at San Juan de Ortega to see the bells . Now to negotiate a spot to sleep....
Leaving San Juan de Ortega, heading to Burgos
After an interesting evening of working on the web page in a stack of tables in our sleeping room (which is now mostly the floor, since all the bunks are taken by the time we arrive) we headed out of San Juan to head for the large town of Burgos. As we have been climbing the past couple of days. the vegetation has changed to much sparser plants. No vineyards. No wheat. Only barley and hay. We passed Atapuerca, where they have recently come across remains of the oldest Homo Sapiens in Europe. Passing through a small town we passes a cross leaning in the wind. We were reminded of our journey and how far we have to go. But in time we saw Burgos even from our view on top . Soon to arrive. Walking into town through several Kms of factories, we arrived at a modern city, the old town being further west. Feeling in need of a quiet room, we found a nice hotel and checked in for two nights, as we need a day of rest. No need to worry about a bed or even a spot on the floor, or whether there is any hot water for a shower and most of all there will not be any obsessive-compulsive pilgrims who set the alarm for 5 am and then rustle their bags for the next hour and leave by 6 am....
So tomorrow I hope to show some photographs of old Burgos and its magnificent cathedral.
Rest day in Burgos, May 20
A much need rest day in Burgos! A nice hotel, hot running water, a restaurant with hot food and a comfortable bed. The city is a modern with a magnificent gothic ceathedral . Entering the square the central fountain beckons one inside. Guarded by the gargoyles the church holds several stunning sights including a dramatic dome . Leaving the church, we passed the main gate with a spacious promenade . Finally passing the signature statue of El Cid we headed back to the hotel for a leisurely lunch. Followed by a nap, only to dream of the trail of tomorrow.
East of the city, through a detour we did not take, there is the Cartuja de Miraflores, still in use as a Carthusian monastery. It was built between 1454 and 1488. The altar was plated with the first gold brought back to Spain from America. Though I had only a hunch of the connection between the camino and the conquistadores, this is one reminder that the connection was indeed there. Indeed the conquistadores were the hidalgos who fought to regain Spain from the Moors and not knowing any life other than fighting went on to conquer the Americas.
Wed. May 21, 2003
Distance walked 22 Km
Conditions: Perfect: Sunny, light breeze, warm
Leaving Burgos in the morning light , passing the cathedral spires slowly took us out of the city. All was not paradise though, and bars were hard to find in the early morning. On the path we saw more bicycles . Again we saw the familiar bells with storks . After finding a wonderful rest spot, I caught Maura resting but not in as bad condition as this pilgrim ! Continuing on we came upon yellow bushes with a marvelous fragrance. So on, and on we went until our refugio in Hornillos a quiet town . Finding the refugio full (again) we found a quaint old mill to spend the night. Tomorrow a new day, and a new adventure. I anxiously await, but until then, I savor the moment!
Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz
May 22, forgot the day of the week
We arrived in Castrojeriz before 2 pm, having walked 19.5 kms only to find that both refugios were full as were some of the hotels. We did find a place to sleep at La Posada after inquiring at a bar. The camino is crowded with an unusual number of pilgrims for this time of the year and it is affecting pilgrims behaviour...in any case we left Hornillos at about 7:30 this morning heading directly west with the longest shadows. Another sunny day. We walked steadily up to a paramo (a bleak upland says my dictionary/small meseta. The path here seems endless and you fell on top of the world. We walked on until the Fuente San Bol where we partook of the miraculous waters together with some Canadian pilgrims. The water of this spring is supposed to cure whatever ails your feet on the camino, so we expect no more blisters, or pain.... We walked back up from the spring and reached the highest point marked by cairns and on toward Hontanas , nestled in a depression of the meseta, so you first see the top of the church tower. Here we stopped to eat at Vitorino's bar, a known figure on the camino. Most of the town seems to be abandoned or in the process of restoration. But some old structures are still in use. ON the way to Castrojeriz we passed by several ruins, el convento de San Anton being the most interesting with its arch over the road, but with a closed refugio . We reached Castrojeriz with reminders of impermanence all about us, the first was labeled O Eternitas however, while others like the castillo overlooking the city or the ruins of San Anton need
no label.
Reflections on pilgrimhood, being but ramblings you can ignore, especially since they need editing
Since the start of the camino we have had the opportunity to observe different types of pilgrims: the get-there-quickly pilgrim, the-tempted-to-cheat pilgrim and the pure pilgrim, the we have had the time to reflect on this as we always seem to arrive too late to get a bunk bed and have spent a few nights on the floor on a mattress, once under the portico of a church, where we almost had no mattress, once on the floor on the dining room and at other times we have found a hotel. The shortage of places to stay seems to change everyone's behavior. The most common way to deal with the anxiety of not finding a bed at the end of a long walk seems to be to get up in the dark, pack by flashlight and arrive at the next refugio as quickly as possible and then sit at the town bar or square until the refugio opens and then sit some more. WE usually find them sitting around in fact when we arrive and then they tell us that the refugio is full, some can't help being just a little smug. So for those pilgrims the camino seems to be an exercise in logistics: how early do we get up, how fast can we walk, what's the best time to stop. It is also possible that for some of them the challenge of the camino is how fast they can go, but then I do not know why they stop walking at noon.
Then there are the pilgrims hang up on purity not just of intention but also of action: Several days ago a pilgrim from Heidelberg passed me on the road: he described the other pilgrims as tanned young people showing off at the bar drinking cocktails at noon. He was a real pilgrim in that he stopped at every church, saw all the prescribed sights, but frequently paid for this by finding a full refugio at the end of the day. They should have a better system-- he said-- and learn how to distinguish a real pilgrim. Indeed he had started walking from home sometime in early February and for him the camino is where the pilgrim walks, the pilgrim makes the camino he told me. For him there was no room for the half time pilgrim interested only in getting there.
Then there are those pilgrims who don't feel that they can get to the next spot quickly enough and have been known to hire a taxi to take their pack to the next refugio, indeed I did it one day when I was sick, tempted by 3 of the 4 Irish beauties we met early on. However the pure pilgrim of that group told me that having a taxi take your pack was the temptation of the devil. I have not done it since, ill or not. For her a pilgrim who does not carry her own pack is not being pure enough or sincere enough, while for some not roughing it in the refugio is not pure enough. But I suspect that as long as there has been a camino, there have been these same discussions about purity. If this is supposed to be a penitential experience. then the more you suffer the more it counts.
We are the pilgrims who, when it starts to feel just a bit too penitential, stop along the way, relax in a shady spot, take pictures, go into churches when we find them open and stay in a hotel when we can't do otherwise. In the end you get what you put into it: you bring paranoia and anxiety, you get out paranoia and anxiety...or you can accept whatever comes when it comes and learn to live in the present accepting things to be fine just as they are: rain, sunshine, the floor, no bed, no hotel, great hotel, forgot to buy food, great meal...great day.. horrible day, somehow it does not seem to matter, it is all part of the experience.
Distance walked: 22.5Km
Date: Friday, May 23, 2003
Weather: Perfect, warm, sunny, with light breeze
More thoughts on pilgrimhood.
We had breakfast this morning with a Portuguese young man who has been with us since the train from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. We seem to walk at about the same pace, taking time out to stop and rest during the day or visit the churches. We talked about 'pure pilgrims' and he told us that he recently met one young man with a bad limp who has been walking 30 kms per day because only 'tourists are interested in the paysage', he would lose purity of intention should he stop and rest and admire the landscape, the flowers, the world around. I, on the other hand, thought that pilgrims were the tourists of the Middle Ages. Much is made on this camino about how 'tourists demand and pilgrims accept'. But we have to agree with the Englishman we also run into repeatedly that when the going gets too penitential, it's time to stop and reflect and with the one fellow American that this is a retreat and that we should neither be too penitential and ascetic nor too luxurious, but avoid all extremes. As I reflect on this I think that the pilgrim is truly a pilgrim once he can accept whatever occurs with equanimity, live in the moment and not spend so much time being his usual self that he misses the opportunity of becoming. Indeed I think that a pilgrimage is both a retreat and an initiation, both require personal transformation, and it does not matter how one does the pilgrimage unless it prevents one from being open to the moment.
To be continued We are about to reach the halfway mark from St. Jean-Pied-de-Port and Santiago, however the book that gives this information also says how difficult it is to know how far you really have walked as the paths seem to vary and we have noticed significant disparities in distances depending on the source. Frequently we expect a long haul into town only to have it appear out no where and at other times we seem to go on forever to complete '2.2 kms...in any case Palencia is at the halfway zone. Setting out from Fromista it was raining and cold. Quite a change from the hot and sunny previous day. Shortly after the start however, the sky cleared and the sun started to shine. The temperatures remained in the 50's and 60's and the breeze was brisk. Stopping for morning coffee we headed out on the foggy wide path . The path was flat but varied today. Sometimes beside a stream with tall weeds and sometimes wide white gravel and sometimes flanked with irrigation canals . Stopping for a snack on the bridge over the river gave us the rest and energy that we needed. Passing on by the river path, our route turned away from the stream at a bridge and a old hermitage . Continuing towards our destination, we passed several churches with the ususal storks on top. An adobe house seemed alone in the field. Distant towns seemed all around. Reaching the top of a hill we could see snow covered mountains as we ascended into Carrion de Los Condes , our stop for the night.
Sunday May 25, 2003
Distance walked: 20 Km
Weather: Cool, high clouds, light winds
Today was an exciting landmark. We have gone over half way! Less than 400 Km to go. Leaving Carrion de Los Condes we crossed the river to view an old old monastery that was well preserved. The path today was long, flat, and straight, reminding me of the long white line , or the long brown line , or possibly the long dirt line . Today we had high clouds, evoking the imagination or an angel from clouds . In any event, we continued to admire the wild flowers in all shapes and purple fields that lined the long dirt path . The camino markers changed, but the path continued. Finally arriving at our destination for the day, a cemetery tower announced our arrival at Calzadilla , with its deserted main street , I am beginning to think that no one lives in these towns . Finding a refugio for the night our dormitory room quickly filled up, but the door was guarded by a mule . So tomorrow is a new day. And it is all down hill from here!
Monday, May 26, 2003
Distance walked 22 Km
Weather: Cold, Bright warm sun, light wind
Leaning the refugio, Maura was surprised to see frost on all the plants. We headed out on the long white path , past an abandoned monastery . The donkey was loaded with gear on following us on the path. We passed hay fields with long vistas , sometimes the grasses tried to close our path . Larry was photographed on the path while Maura found comfort in another pilgrim. We passes several churches without windows which seemed strange to us. They were all locked so we could not see what it was like inside. But soon we saw Sahagun in the distance and knew our rest was near.
Tuesday May 27, 2003
Distance: 17 Km
Weather: Cool, sunny, breezy
Out of Sahagun we passes the usual city church spires , gate , and bridge . Heading out on the flat dusty path we passed more deserted villages with one bar that was closed. I am beginning to think that there is no life here in Spain?? Continuing along the brown path the vegetation became more sparse. The wheat was thinner, but as always beautiful wild flowers graced our way. The path was winding . As we are now in Leon, the signs so reflect! Just before our town for the night, Calzadilla de la Hermanillos, we came across a fountain , poorly maintained but with its own beauty . Soon to arrive in Calzadilla de la Hermanillos for a delightful refugio, with little rooms of 2 bunk beds, sleeping only 16. So another beautiful day on the Camino, with hopes of another tomorrow.
Maura's reflections on refugios
We all start out thinking that the authentic way to be a pilgrim on the camino is to spend the night in the refugios, and we started by doing so, in fact felt guilty the first time we stayed in a hbgotel. Refugios open anywhere between 12 and 3 and have limited spaces. Usually they have bunk beds, sometime 3 tiers of bunk beds, in most places the bed is not assigned and you find what you can when you arrive, as they are on a first come first serve basis. Now there are a few problems: most people do not like top bunks, and there aren't enough to go around for the unexpected number of pilgrims this year. So some people are anxious and try to be the first in line to get in when they open. Then they are crowded, there are at least 4 or 5 nationalities represented, each with a different idea about how it should be: the windows closed, the windows open, lights out at 10, lights pout when the first person goes to sleep. And then during the night there are the snorers, the ones who think that they do not snore, and in a room full of middle aged people at about 2 am the bathroom walkers start...some turn on the light, some do not like the light to be turned on, some leave the main door open, some like it shut. At 5 or so the early walkers start rustling their bags, and so it goes...So the refugios are indeed a big part of the experience, it is the constant reminder of tolerance, patience, letting go of how things need to be. The question is once you have proved to yourself that you can truly let go, is continuing to stay in the refugio now a new kind of attachment? Is it
attachment to the idea that you have to suffer as a pilgrim, even gratuitously? They say that you wipe half of your time in Purgatory by doing this camino, do you have to live in purgatory while you do it??
Wed, May 28
Distance walked 22km
Weather: warm, sunny, no breeze, no shade, no nothing
We had the best refugio and town experience yet, probably because few people do come this way. The refugio was open and unattended when we arrived, so we left our packs and went looking for a bar, while taking photos of different entries: door1, door2, wooden door, our first old senora , attractive window , and windowless church . The town people seemed happy to see us and went out of their way to help us find the bar, then the tienda. We met a group of French pilgrims, and had the experience of developing a small community for a night that other pilgrims talk about. This morning we left the albergue in the early morning light and started on a straight road through the meseta. In areas this seemed to be the original Roman paving. In any case the road was straight and flat, grasses and cereals grew on each side and we crossed several small streams, one of which we had to ford. Though the landscape lacked structural visual interest there were wonderful variations in colors and wildflowers , though they were subtle. It did seem that the meseta went on forever, but soon enough we reached the outskirts of Mansilla de Las Mulas and soon its gate.
The hardest thing about the camino is reaching a town and walking on the pavement, at the end of the day it can be somewhat painful, and the nicest thing about the camino is reaching town and being able to take your boots off...
Thursday May 29, 2003
Distance: 22 Km
Weather: Hot, Very sunny, light breeze
Leon, the biggest town so far was our destination today. Passing through fields along the hot white path , undulating slowly we made progress along the path. A wall painting that caught our pilgrim's eye with it's stick, shell and water flask. Mostly we went through the industrial area leading into town. Once the town was clearly in view the scenery clearly became more interesting. The usual storks and church caught our view as did the typical street scene . The check in at the albergie was pleasant, with food welcoming the guests. We opted not to stay at the albergie, since we had decided to take a rest day tomorrow. Continuing past the cathedral inspired us with it's majestic spires . Maura found some friends who may be the only ones going slower than we were moving today. Checking in to a hostel for the night allows us to sleep in tomorrow and catch up on some rest and "body repairs".
Friday May 30, 2003
Weather: Warm, light clouds
Rest day Leon
A much needed rest day in Leon. Leon is a majestic city of old Spain. Streets were filled with people going about their business. The buildings had a taste of nobility. Not only the main cathedral, but multiple other churches dotted the city. After a morning e-mail check , Maura found herself a couple of friends to rest with. We visited the old palace of the Knights of Leon, now converted into a hotel. An interior courtyard gave a taste of old nobility, with high vaulted ceilings . The view of the garden was peaceful while the view from the upper level show its true beauty. So after sleeping most of the afternoon, we are ready for the final couple of weeks of walking. If all goes well, we expect to finish in about 16 days, feet and bodies willing !
Saturday May 31, 2003
Distance: 25 Km
Weather: Hot, sunny, nice breeze
Leaving Leon the streets were now deserted at 7 AM. Heading west, out of town, the path became hilly. We had two choices of paths today, one along the highway and one away from the highway. When the time came to choose, I took the path that was perpendicular to the highway, thinking that we would be away from the highway. Wrong. Oh, well, next time I'll know. So we walked along the highway, passing apples pruned like grapes, and the usual array of beautiful wildflowers . The storks have moved from their usual low tech perch of churches to go high tech on cell towers . Maybe this explains the erratic cell phone function here. Passing a lovely spot for lunch we escaped from the sun for a brief time. Continuing on the white path we kept an eye on rapidly forming thunder clouds to the north. Fortunately we arrived at our refugio for the night before the clouds did anything. So we now feel that we are in the final stretch, about 325 Km to go.
Sunday June 1, 2003
Distance: 25 Km
Weather: Cloudy, warm
Leaving the refugio behind, we headed out on flat along the road soon to arrive in Puente de Orbigo with its impressive stone bridge. The terrain soon changed to one lane path up into the hills . We have finally left the meseta and are going into the hills and soon mountains again. A sign between villages made us feel welcome. Continuing along the hilly path we made out way up and down. The grasses and liken covered branches offered varied scenery. Eventually we reached the top to see Astorga in the valley. A most beautiful surprise the main square was full of Sunday church goers, while the town hall , cathedral , and Gaudi Palace gave us architectural treasures to admire. Finding a hotel we checked in for the night to start the major climb of the Camino tomorrow.
More random observations.
Yesterday was very hot, with very little breeze and unrelenting sunshine. I don't like the heat much and have been known to wilt in such weather. So I decided that today I would beat the heat and start earlier in the morning. So I got up in the dark, and was out the door before my early morning husband was even ready to go. Of course today was partially overcast, somewhat cool and with thunder in the distance, I could have started at least two hours later. During this trip I have had plenty of occasions to notice my need to control what happens, or at least to over prepare. UNfortunately I notice that I am only preparing for the conditions I encountered yesterday. Of course it is important to learn from one's experience, but in truth you can only walk tomorrow's conditions tomorrow and to correct for what has already occurred is a kind of insanity. Nonetheless there we are doing it, and in fact we do it all the time. And if we do not over plan for yesterday's conditions we make contingency plans, again with the absurd notion that you can deal with tomorrow's conditions today. This is a most concrete example of not living in the present.
Monday June 2, 2003
Distance: 21 Km
Weather: Cool, Cloudy, perfect walking weather
Leaving beautiful Astorga we entered the hills. Climbing slowly on a paved road , we reached villages and hills all around us. The building construction changed from adobe to magnificent stone. Entering small hill villages with local bars to sell us coffee. The stone work was precise, even to include basket ball hoops ! Always a church and a cross at every turn. The path was lined with flowers . The wildflowers continued to amaze us. Street vendors tried to sell pilgrim wares, while the mountain peaks now were snow covered. We continued to climb as we approached out rest town of Rabanal del Camino . Tomorrow we cross the highest point. It will be the hardest day, and psychologically the approach to Santiago. We anticipate the transition!
Tuesday June 3, 2003
Distance: 25 Km
Weather: Cloudy, cold at mountain top, warm valley, few showers..undecided weather...
Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
Today was a bit of a magical day, the landscape around us has changed. We climbed to the highest point on the camino surrounded by mountains, the path amid yellow and white broom, heather everywhere and above the tree line. We reached one of the landmarks of the camino--the Cruz de Hierro, and then descended about a 1000 ft to a path among chestnut trees, we went through some nicely preserved villages to arrive at Molinaseca after crossing a Romanesque bridge. Leaving Rabanal del Camino this morning I found some old farm equipment, a wagon and an donkey powered water pump . After this we headed up, seriously up. The path, full of pilgrims today, was overgrown with broom and heather. The broom had a lemony scent, and we walked in it for most of the day. Looking back we could see the village. Up, up we went. After about 14 Km climb we reached the top . The "iron cross" marked the spot, the highest point of the camino. The base of the cross is heaped with with stones of different sizes and some of the pilgrims had been searching for the right one while climbing. The tradition is that you bring a stone from home and leave it behind on the cross as a way to leave behind all your worries, your old self and anything else you would like to detach from. Continuing on the long gray path we slowly walked. The mountains were all around. Coming on to a mountain refugio we found distance makers to some not so helpful places. The mountains gave us a fountain to refill our water bottles. The clouds started to come in but they could not hide the colorful
hillside . More clouds blurred out views for several hours, but by this time we were descending and we got below the mist. A small village gave us some glimpses of what old houses might have been like. Foxglove was now in bloom. We continued to descend looking at the road below us as we cut our path through the hillside . Finally Molinaseca came into view. Maura crossed the bridge into town to find a hostel for the night. It is the pink one in the photo. A spectacular day. Tomorrow we head into an industrial town, getting ready for another mountain crossing in a couple of days.
Wednesday June 4, 2003
Distance: 8 Km
Weather: Cold, Rain
Today was to be a sightseeing day in Ponferrada, the site of a castle of the Knights of Templar. It was also to be an easy day. And so it was, only 8 kms mostly on paved roads. We left Molinaseca late after taking photos of a mossy slate roof across our hotel room, this was to be our last photo until we reached Ponferrada as the weather could not decide whether to rain or shine, it was put on the rain gear, take off the rain gear type of day. We were surrounded by hills, made mysterious by the mist and clouds. One of us walked very slowly so that we searched for the refugio early and the kind German hospitalera let me have a bed before opening time. Our sight seeing came later after a lunch of pilgrim menu del dia which we shared with pilgrims we have now been walking with for quite a while and shared news of other pilgrims who have gone ahead or are left behind and our favorite highlights of the day in the life of a pilgrim . These are finding a refugio with bed or at least a mattress and a roof, hot water for a shower, having dry clothes in the morning, an open bar by 10 am for a cafe con leche, pilgrim menu del dia which usually has a first and second courses and dessert, vino y agua for about 5-6 $...taking off your boots..no blisters.
...then sightseeing The castle is by far the most imposing structure in Ponferrada, though it appears to have been neglected or at least ignored for some time. It stands above the river and towers over the old town, though the cathedral tower appears to tower over it. We found a bronze statue in the main square. We later found out that it was the exact likeness of a man who used to give out sweets in the park, a well liked man, the waitress who told us remembers him fondly from her childhood. The day ended with dinner at the refugio and a pilgrim's benediction in the church attached to this refugio, it was given in multiple languages, and at the end we, together, recited the Lord's prayer in our own language. The French, spanish and Italian versions were much shorter than the German, but perhaps they are more careful reciters of prayers.
June 5, 2003
Distance: 23.5 Km Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo
Weather: Cloudy in morning, glorious in the afternoon
Today was a mixed day, we started in Ponferrada , an industrial town and ended up in the hills and wine country. It was misty and overcast and uninspiring in the morning, but by the end of the day it is clear and warm. We walked through some old industrial sites, in fact a slag heap not far out of Ponferrada, then through some suburbs, and finally back into the country. As we left the city we came upon a stork condo . The villages have many still lived in old houses , people still live in the old way as the man cutting firewood by hand. Yesterday morning and some other wet mornings we have come upon women collecting snails. Beautiful balconies seemed to be everywhere. The route was lined with cherry trees as we wound our way through vineyards as we are now back in wine country. The path varied from old dirt roads to highways, always coming closer to the hills . Slowly the hills became bigger bigger as we approached Villafranca del Bierzo , another town with a magnificent castle . The castle is apprently an old Knights of Templar castle, in better conditions though smaller thatn the one in Ponferrada, and it is privately owned and lived in! This town apparently also has the house in which the grand inquisitor Torquemada lived, a house I am happy to miss. So tomorrow we head up into the mountains for another crossing, tonight we rest with dreams of mountains and villages on the other side.
We will reach Galicia, and we will be about 150 kms from Santiago. However I must say that we are unsure of the real distance, the signs we have come across all seem to contradict each other, we were 202.5 kms away from the refugio in Ponferrada, but after walking at least 10 kms outside of Ponferrada a new sign told us that we were 210 kms away from Santiago. We are convinced that we are on a wild goose chase, especially after following the route markers which seem to take us in circles around towns...
Friday June 6, 2003
Distance: 32 Km
Weather: Hot, sunny, light breeze
Today we tried something different. There were two options for the route. The first was shorter but followed the road. The second was a couple of Km longer, but involved climbing a 2000+m hill. The route also included a long steep climb at the end of the day, which was going to be a very long day for us. So we decided to send our packs along by car, while we walked the longer route. What a great day we had! Leaving Villafrance we came upon another pilgrim statue . We immediately started to climb which gave us a great view of the castle and town . Following the hill road Villafrance became smaller. As always the flowers were lovely. We wound our way through old chestnut groves . Passing a quaint little church we made our way back into the mountains . Maura did not do well in the heat but the scenery inspired us. Up and up we climber as the mountains became bigger . The view from the top kept Maura climbing . The mileage markers told us exactly how many Km's there were to Santiago. Finally around 8:30, after over 12 hours of walking we reached Ocebreiro for the night, a charming village on top of the mountain. So tomorrow we descend all the way to the valley on the other side of the mountain. All that work for only a few moments of rest.
Saturday June 7, 2003
DIstance 22 Km
Weather: Warm, sunny, light breeze
Sunday June 8, 2003
Distance: 18 Km
Weather: Foggy in morning, warm and sunny in afternoon
Today was a wonderful day, starting with a foggy morning and ending with bright sunshine. The path seemed to mystically wind its way through farm lands and quaint village, untouched by time. The best description is simply to show the path in all its permutations: Fern lined , misty villages , yellow flowers , vine covered , small stone bridges ; occasionally finding things in our path: cows , stone walls , and shell shaped fountains . All too soon we arrived at our town for the night, now leaving only 120 Km or about 6 days to go.
Monday June 9, 2003
Distance: 22.5 Km
Weather: Warm, sunny, light breeze
Galicia is a wonderful Junta (they spell Xunta here, and there are a few other language differences). Green, fertile, rolling hills, much like Northern Pennsylvania. We headed across the hills, and consequently crossed many streams. My theme for the day is therefore bridges, simple , pretty , functional , always useful , large , round , and basic . The other unique feature of today was corn cribs, a style I had not seen anywhere but Galicia, simple , masonry and fancy . Passing huge old chestnut trees , around the path . The path was lined with foxglove and moss while stone walls surrounded potato fields . The scenery looked like the hills of the NorthEast USA . Another unique Galicia feature are round bird houses (I believe that they are columbaras, places where pigeons are raised). Finally arriving in Portomarin, with its cathedral heralds the end of another day. With only about 90 Km left, we are starting to plan our arrival in Santiago with mixed emotions.
Tuesday June 10, 2003
Distance: 24 Km
Weather: Cloudy, showers, cool
Today started out cool, cloudy and threatening of rain. We left Portomarin to head up over the hills. The stone work, including the
walls showed years of tradition. As yesterday there was an amazing display of corn cribs , corn cribs , corn cribs . Old curved houses with wonderful stairs brightened our day. Old wagons seem to defy time. Still Maura climbed as our path went from open fields to woods . All too soon we came to Palas del Rei for the night. If all goes well we should get into Santiago in 3 days. The thought of finishing now seems to be the topic everyone is concerned about....what will we do when it is over?
Wednesday June 11, 2003
Distance: 15 Km
Weather: Hot, sunny, calm
Leaving Palace de Rei we passed old stone houses and more corn cribs . The path was sandy at times and the roses seemed to glow in the sunlight. Old farm houses dotted the fields while eucalyptuses trees flanked the path. We found a small church with a Camino-famous crucifix , with one hand down to help the pilgrims along the path. The sum was hot and we were showing signs of accumulated fatigue, so we stopped early after 15 Km at Melide. So a good rest today, tomorrow we start the final push to Santiago. In two days, we expect to finally arrive!
Thursday June 12, 2003
Distance 26 Km
Weather: Hot, sunny, light breeze
Santiago to Finisiterre
Distance walked 3 kms
Distance by bus: 85 kms
Weather sunny and warm.
We headed to Santiago de Compostela on our pilgrimage, however the real end of the pilgrimage is Finisterre, the westernmost tip of the European continent. One follows the course of the Milky Way or the course of the sun setting and witnesses its plunge and death into the ocean. In fact the name of the coast at this point is Costa do Morte. So reaching Finisterrre is witnessing the death of the sun into the ocean, which is itself a symbol of new life. The shell, which modern pilgrims carry during their walk, is really a proof of having reached the ocean and one would have acquired at the end of the pilgrimage not at the beginning as we modern pilgrims do.
At Finisterre some pilgrims end the pilgrimage by a ritual burning of clothes.
We went to Finisterre on a bus and walked the last 3 kms to the coast. and finally reached the end . We did not burn our clothes, concerned about the smoke from the mostly synthetic materials, so I left my boots instead.
The next day we left Santiago for Rome and on Tuesday we were back in Coldipozzo in time to catch a storm and rainbows.